The Giving Table

Thanksgiving was just over but it feels like a zillion years ago because I’m already thinking about Hanukkah and even New Year’s weekend, when we always have our cousins over for several days.

That means: gifts and food.

One gift: Naomi Ross’ new kosher cookbook, The Giving Table (Menucha).

Food: several items from Naomi’s newly published cookbook.

My cousins come for several days, so there is ample opportunity to eat. On New Year’s Eve we always have hors d’oeuvres only, three different times during the day for meat, dairy and finally, smoked fish.

I made several of the recipes in the book and have already decided on several hors d’oeuvre for the meat-fest: Tamarind Glazed Meatballs, Korean Fusion BBQ Wings and Apricot Chicken Skewers. They were outstanding! And for one of the dairy hors d’oeuvre hour - definitely the Khachapuri. I’ve made that one a few times and it is too good to miss.

Before New Year’s Eve I am also going to try the Salmon Stuffed Avocadoes, 5 Spice Duck Breast Salad and the Lemon Ombre Trifles (with lemon curd AND lemon cream!!), for dessert because all sound fabulous.

But there is so much more to this book.

Great globally-influenced recipes, so far, yes, but more.

One of the most helpful aspects of the book are the QR codes in some of the chapters for some of the more intricate or could-be-confusing parts of a recipe. For example, I used a code for Khachapuri so I could watch a video to see how to roll and stuff the dough and then stir in the butter and egg (and also how to actually eat it).

I also used a code to see how Naomi braided a four (and six) strand challah – it was so helpful to see her do it not a zillion miles an hour like on Instagram or FB – but nice and slowly so you can actually see how it’s done.

Naomi is obviously a born teacher because there is so much information stuffed here and there and in between the recipes. Short essays that personalize the chapter to come. Notes from the Talmud. Food suggestions, recipes and information for special diets and special events such as visiting and providing food for the sick and elderly or for new mothers: chesed cooking.

There are tips on how to make meal prep easier, on tools and cooking equipment, what to do when you’re short on time, how to refresh food that’s cooked ahead.

She answers questions such as “what is a roux?” “What is risotto rice?” and gives suggestions for equivalents and substitutions.

There is also a chapter on cooking for a crowd (though the recipes can be cut down for a more usual number of people – like those Lemon Ombre Trifles that I plan to serve for dessert).

And more – an appendix chapter with advice on how to be good to yourself even though you are preparing food for others. That one made me smile because those of us who cook regularly, even those of us who absolutely love to prepare food for our families and friends, need someone to acknowledge the time, effort and sometimes the struggle it is for us to do it.

Thanks Naomi for hearing us.

Labor Day Potato Salad

Well that went fast!

Summer I mean.

Here it is, Labor Day weekend. I’m starting to get ready for the Jewish holidays, but not before one last “summer” barbecue.

Here’s a good dairy-free, mayonnaise-free potato salad to go along with anything else you might be serving. I have to confess thought that occasionally I will mix in 2-3 tablespoons of mayonnaise if I am serving people who I know prefer their potato salad creamier.

Labor Day Potato Salad

• 2 pounds new potatoes or small red Bliss potatoes

• 6 tablespoons white wine (or vegetable stock)

• 2 thick scallions, chopped

• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, basil, savory, oregano, thyme, rosemary 

• 1/4 cup olive oil

• 2-3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

• 2-3 tablespoons mayonnaise, optional

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and cook for about 15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. When they are cool enough to handle but still warm, peel the potatoes and cut them into bite sized pieces. Place the potatoes in a bowl. Pour in the wine, add the scallions and herbs and toss the ingredients together. In a small bowl, mix the olive oil, white wine vinegar and mustard (add 2-3 tablespoons mayonnaise if desired). Pour over the potatoes and toss the ingredients. Sprinkle to taste with salt and pepper. Let rest at least 15 minutes before serving. Best at room temperature.

Makes 6-8 servings

Cucumber Salad

My garden isn’t doing too well this year. I have some green tomatoes, the basil is thriving and I have a few almost-ready habanero peppers. But the eggplant plants died and, even though I had lots of zucchini, squash and pumpkin blossoms, I have ZERO fruit.

Also, all of the cucumber plants withered.

So, when I wanted to make cucumber salad for guests recently, I had to get a cuke from the supermarket.

The dish wasn’t as emotionally satisfying as when I make it with a freshly picked cucumber. But it was still delicious. Also — the dill IS from my garden. That plant is barely hanging on. I had enough for this and one other recipe.

Cucumber Salad

• 2 large cucumbers, peeled and thinly sliced

• 1 small vidalia or red onion, sliced

• 1/2 cup white wine vinegar

• 1/4 cup plain yogurt

• 2 tablespoons brown sugar

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander or dill

• 4 dried red chili peppers, optional (or use a few drops of hot sauce)

Place the cucumber and onion slices in a bowl. Mix the wine vinegar, yogurt, brown sugar and salt together and pour the liquid over the vegetables. Sprinkle with the coriander or dill. If using chili peppers, break them in half, remove the seeds and scatter the pods over the cucumbers. Toss the ingredients and let marinate for at least one hour.  Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled. 

Makes 6-8 servings   

Corn, Avocado and Tomato Salad

Vegetable salads are a big deal at my house during the summer. I make them at least 3-4 times a week. They go with everything: meat, fish, poultry, vegetarian dinner. They’re colorful. They can be made ahead. They’re dairy-free, (although you can certainly add some crumbled cheese to most of them, including in the recipe below).

I’ve made this particular salad dozens of times, adding ingredients here and there if I have them — cucumber, canned chick peas, celery, crumbled feta or goat cheese (and once I made it with blue cheese), etc.

All good. This dish is a good pick for a July 4th weekend barbecue. We eat it at room temperature, when the flavors are at their best.

Corn, Avocado and Tomato Salad

• 2 ears of corn (about 1 to 1-1/2 cups kernels)

• 1 small red bell pepper, deseeded and chopped

• 3-4 scallions, chopped

• 1 avocado, cut into bite size chunks

• 2 cups cut up grape or cherry tomatoes

• 2 tablespoons olive or avocado oil

• 2-3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Steam, poach or grill the corn, let cool and scrape the kernels into a bowl. Add the bell pepper, scallions, avocado and tomatoes. Pour in the olive oil and toss the ingredients to distribute them evenly and coat them with the oil. Add 2 tablespoons of the white wine vinegar, the thyme and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Taste and add more vinegar if desired. Let rest for about 10 minutes before serving.

Makes 4-6 servings

Pashtida

If you haven’t tried Pashtida, you’re missing out. This dish — so popular in Israel — is kind of like a cross between a quiche, a frittata and a kugel. Sometimes it’s made with meat, sometimes dairy and sometimes just vegetables. Any way at all — this is one delicious treat!

Pashtida is filling and hearty enough for dinner (add a side salad) but light enough for lunch. It’s also the kind of dish that’s made for weekend brunch. Leftovers are good too — easily reheated for weekday breakfast.

If you’re looking for a new dairy dish for Shavuot (and, thinking ahead, during the Nine Days or for your Break-the-fast) I encourage you to try this one. My recipe is a melange of eggs, cheese and veggies that you spoon into a casserole and bake until the eggs are set and the top is crispy.

This dish is also amazingly versatile, so I’ve listed a variety of options for substitution.

Vegetable Pashtida

• 1 large Yukon Gold potato, peeled and diced

• 1 tablespoon butter

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 1 medium onion, chopped (3 scallions; 2 shallots)

• 1 cup chopped fresh: spinach; kale; (diced) zucchini; or chopped cooked veggies (such as green beans, carrots, bell pepper, asparagus; eggplant); or thawed frozen peas or corn

• Halved mini-tomatoes (such as grape or cherry; about 7-8); chopped sun-dried tomatoes, optional

• 4 tablespoons cream cheese, cut into small pieces (or 1/3 cup dairy sour cream or 1/2 cup cottage cheese)

• 5 large eggs

• 1 cup whole milk or half and half

• 1/2 cup shredded meltable cheese such as Swiss, cheddar, Havarti or mozzarella

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (dill, basil)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly grease a casserole dish (such as approximately 8”x 6” or a 6-cup round) and set aside. Cook the potatoes in lightly salted boiling water for about 3 minutes or until barely tender. Drain and set aside. Heat the butter and olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the onion and cook for a minute. Add the potato and cook for 5-6 minutes or until the pieces are lightly crispy, stirring occasionally. Add the vegetables and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they have softened. Add the tomatoes, if used, and cook for another minute. Add the cream cheese and continue to cook and stir until the cheese has melted into the vegetables. Remove the pan from the heat and let the ingredients cool slightly. Beat the eggs and milk together and pour over the vegetable-cream cheese mixture. Add the shredded cheese and stir gently until the ingredients are evenly distributed. Sprinkle to taste with salt, pepper and parsley. Spoon the ingredients into the prepared casserole dish. Bake for about 45 minutes or until the eggs are set and the top is crispy.

Makes 4-6 servings

Turkey Chili

Turkey Chili

When the weather starts to get cold I make hot, filling food. Like chili. I have lots of recipes because the basics are the same but the the recipe is so versatile that I can change it depending on my mood and on what ingredients I have.

For example:

1. the beans: red kidney, white cannelini, black beans are all fine — or any other. Dried and reconstituted or canned.

2. I usually choose ground turkey but you can use any ground meat (or chopped meat); best are: beef, veal or poultry. But you can make it meatless: try firm tofu or just use more beans, maybe two kinds.

3. make it spicier with chopped fresh chili pepper or less spicy with a mild chili powder

4. serve it with chips or mashed avocado (or sour cream for meatless)

Have it your way. It’s all good. Also — it lasts, so you can make it 2-3 days ahead and keep it in the fridge.

Note: a version of this recipe was originally published in The Jewish Week Food & Wine.

Turkey Chili

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 large onion, chopped

• 2 large cloves garlic, chopped

• 1 serrano (or other hot) pepper, deseeded and chopped, optional

• 16-20 ounces ground turkey

• 28 ounce can tomatoes, coarsely chopped, undrained

• 1/4 cup tomato paste

• 1/2 cup water or vegetable stock

• 2 teaspoons chili powder

• 2 teaspoons ground cumin

• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 15-19 ounce can white beans, drained

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and serrano pepper and cook briefly. Add the turkey and cook, stirring to break up the pieces, for 3-5 minutes, until the meat has turned color. Add the tomatoes with their juices, tomato paste, water, chili powder, cumin, oregano and salt and pepper to taste. Cover the pan and simmer for 1-1/2 hours. Stir in the beans. Cook uncovered for 30 minutes.

Makes 4 servings

Eggplant Parmesan

When I need a meatless meal, Eggplant Parmesan is one of my traditional go-tos. It’s familiar, relatively easy to prepare and you can cook it in advance and freeze it for about a month. Best of all, it tastes really good.

I especially love this dish in the summer when my garden is in bloom with thick, fresh purple eggplants!

The recipe below lists one cup of marinara sauce. I make my own and freeze that too. But in a pinch, store-bought works too when you want to make things easier on yourself.

Another thing that’s easy -- and less caloric too -- I roast the eggplant slices instead of breading and frying them.

Eggplant Parmesan

• 1 medium to large eggplant

• salt

• 5 tablespoons olive oil, approximately

• 1 cup marinara sauce

• 15 ounces ricotta cheese

• 1/4 cup plus 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

• 1 large egg

• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano (or 3/4 teaspoon dried)

• 1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Slice the eggplant about 1/8-inch thick, sprinkle with salt and let rest for 20-30 minutes. Wipe the eggplant slices dry and place them on a baking sheet. Brush each side of each slice of eggplant with a film of olive oil. Roast the slices for about 15 minutes, turning them once, until they are softened and lightly browned. Remove the slices from the oven. Place 1/2 cup of the marinara sauce in a baking dish. Place 1/3 of the eggplant slices in top (overlap the slices slightly). Mix the ricotta cheese with 1/4 cup of the Parmesan cheese, the egg and oregano. Place half of this cheese mixture on top of the eggplant slices. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup of the shredded mozzarella cheese and 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan cheese. Add another layer of eggplant slices. Cover with the remaining ricotta cheese mixture. Spread with the remaining (1/2 cup) marinara sauce. Cover with the remaining eggplant slices. Sprinkle with the remaining (3/4 cup) mozzarella cheese and the remaining (1/4 cup) Parmesan cheese. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until the cheese has melted and is beginning to turn lightly brown.

Makes 4 servings

Farro and Roasted Chick Pea Salad

I’m a salad lover year ‘round, but somehow even for me, warm weather is salad season for real.

So, here we are, it’s almost summer. It’s already hot as blazes where I am and I am in even more of a salad mood.

This one is so easy and you can make it ahead — don’t add the dressing until 15-20 minutes before serving time. Also — I love farro but you could substitute any whole grain or even couscous.

Remember this one for July 4th — you can tote it to a picnic — and even for Labor Day.

Happy summer!

Farro and Roasted Chick Pea Salad

• 1 can chick peas (15 ounces)

• 3-4 tablespoons olive oil, approximately

• Salt to taste

• 1 cup farro

• 2 cups water

• 3-4 scallions, chopped

• 1 avocado, peeled and diced

• 2-3 tablespoons wine vinegar

• 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

• salt to taste

• Aleppo pepper, optional

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Drain the chick peas and place them on a baking sheet. Pour 2 teaspoons olive oil over them and toss to coat. Sprinkle with salt. Roast for about 20 minutes or until crispy and lightly browned. Remove from the oven and let cool. While the vegetables are roasting, place the farro and water in a saucepan and bring the liquid to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat, cover the pan and simmer for 25-30 or until the grain is tender, but still chewy. Let cool slightly and place in a mixing bowl. Add the chick peas, scallions and avocado and toss the ingredients to distribute them evenly. Pour in 2 tablespoons olive oil and toss the ingredients. Pour in the wine vinegar, add the parsley, mint and cumin and toss the ingredients again. Season to taste with salt and Aleppo pepper. Stir in more olive oil and/or wine vinegar if you wish.

Makes 6-8 servings 

Roasted Potato Salad with Red Onions and Rosemary

If you’re getting out the grill to celebrate Lag BaOmer or because the warm weather is finally here or just because grilled food is so so good — have you decided about a side dish to go with those chicken legs or salmon steaks or hot dogs.

How about potato salad?

I make all sorts of potato salad, but because roasted potatoes are a classic food for Lag BaOmer, I went the extra step and roasted the potatoes for this version. The crispy edge added a really satisfying texture and the flavor was extra rich because the high heat caramelized the onions. I used a cast iron pan and suggest that for best results. Your oven is fine (instructions below) but if you have room for the pan on the grill — go for it and cook the entire feast outdoors.

This dish tastes best at room temperature, although my husband likes it hot, so, either way.

Roasted Potato Salad with Red Onions and Rosemary

• 2 pounds “new” waxy potatoes (such as Red Bliss or baby Yukon Golds)

• 1 small red onion, sliced

• 5 tablespoons olive oil

• 3 tablespoons lemon juice

• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. If you have a cast iron grill pan or frying pan, preheat it in the oven. Wash the potatoes and cook them in simmering water for 12-15 minutes or until tender. Peel the potatoes when they are cool enough to handle; cut them into bite size pieces and place them in a bowl with the onion slices. Pour 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over the vegetables, toss them to coat all sides and place them in the preheated pan (or use an ovenproof pan or baking sheet). Roast for 25-30 minutes, mixing 2-3 times, or until lightly browned and crispy. While the potatoes are cooking, mix the remaining olive oil, lemon juice and Dijon mustard in a large bowl. Add the roasted potatoes and onions when they are done. Add the parsley and rosemary. Toss the ingredients. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let rest for at least 15 minutes before serving. Serve still warm or at room temperature.

Makes 4-6 servings

Chicken: Soup to Salad

Every year before Passover I think about new ways to eat the chicken from the chicken soup that I cook for my Seder. I make the soup several days ahead, strain the liquid and freeze it. 

The cooked vegetables and boiled chicken do make a good, plain, old-fashioned meal for dinner, but we don't always want that. So, with the vegetables? Best bet has always been veggie burgers.

The chicken? Salad. Made all sorts of ways.

Here's one way. Fortunately ataulfo (honey/champagne) mangoes are in season and they are easy to peel and cut for salad; they’re also not stringy like some mango varieties. Bonus: I put aside some of the dill I use to season my chicken soup and it is a lovely seasoning for chicken and mangoes.

Chicken and Mango Salad with Dill

• 2-1/2 to 3 cups diced cooked chicken

• 1 small (I used ataulfo) ripe mango, peeled and diced

• 2-3 teaspoons chopped fresh dill

• 3-5 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• 2-3 tablespoons olive oil

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the chicken and mango dice in a bowl. Sprinkle the dill on top. Mix 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar with 2 tablespoons olive oil and pour over the chicken and fruit. Toss. Season with salt and pepper. If you prefer a moister salad, add more olive oil and/or white wine vinegar to taste. Or fold in a bit of mayonnaise. Let rest for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Makes 2-4 servings