brunch

German Apple Pancake

People joke that for every Jewish holiday there’s a different food and that’s actually true, except for fast days which means no food, but food is still part of the holiday, if you know what I mean. 

Because I’m a food writer I love the culinary aspect of holidays and love making holiday specialties. Chremslach during Passover. Cheesecake for Shavuot. Honey Cake for Rosh Hashanah.

Of course other religions and ethnic groups have delicious foods for holidays too. I love making and eating some of them. I don’t celebrate St. Patrick’s Day but I can still enjoy an Irish coffee. And I don’t observe Lent but absolutely love being reminded about pancakes when Shrove Tuesday (aka Pancake Tuesday) rolls around, which it will, soon.

Actually our family enjoys pancakes on any given weekend, and particularly my German Apple Pancake in the fall, when the fresh crop of apples is available — this is a traditional treat for us for Rosh Hashanah.

But since I have been thinking about pancakes I figure, why wait? I like to serve a meatless meal at least once a week and I can’t think of anything I’d like more this week than that German Apple Pancake we love so much.

When I make this for Rosh Hashanah, I use Rhode Island Greenings, Gravensteins or Jonagold apples. This time of year I use Honeycrisp. 

GERMAN APPLE PANCAKE

  • 2 large, tart apples, peeled, cored and sliced

  • 3 tablespoons sugar

  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

  • 3/4 cup all-purpose flour

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

  • 3/4 cup milk

  • 4 large eggs

  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

  • 6 tablespoons butter

  • 1-2 teaspoons sifted confectioner’s sugar, optional

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Place the apple slices in a bowl. Add the sugar and cinnamon, mix and set aside. Mix the flour and salt together in a bowl and set aside. Combine the milk, eggs and vanilla in another bowl, add the flour mixture and whisk the ingredients into a smooth batter and set aside. Heat the butter in a heavy skillet, preferably cast-iron, over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the apples, including any juices, and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the apples are soft and caramelized. Pour the batter over the apples. Place the pan in the oven. Bake for about 20 minutes or until the pancake is puffed and golden brown. Invert onto a serving platter. Serve as is or sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar.

Makes 4 servings

Perfect Corn Muffins

Corn Muffin

Sometimes I get a yen for some food and I make it a lot. Recently, it’s been cranberry muffins for breakfast. But one morning I needed a change up so I made corn muffins. Not too sweet, they’re a good breakfast with some fresh fruit (for me, my favorite: ataulfo mango).

MAPLE CORN MUFFINS

  • 6 tablespoons butter

  • 1/4 cup maple syrup (or honey)

  • 1 cup all-purpose flour

  • 1 cup cornmeal

  • 1 tablespoon baking powder

  • 3/4 teaspoon salt

  • 1 large egg

  • 3/4 cup milk

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Lightly grease 8 muffin cups. Melt the butter with the honey and set aside to cool. In a bowl, mix the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt. In another bowl mix the egg, milk and cooled butter mixture, beating until well blended. Pour the liquid into the cornmeal mixture and stir to blend the ingredients. Spoon equal amounts into the muffin cups. Bake for 18-20 minutes or until golden brown.

Makes 8

Mujadara, the answer to Vegetarian Thanksgiving

Our Thanksgiving feast has the usual turkey, stuffing, cranberry something-or-other and so on. But I also serve at least one vegetarian main course, usually some version of Mujadara, made with either bulgur wheat, kaniwa or brown rice. It’s a simple dish, everyone loves it and I can make it ahead. Over the years I learned it’s best to cook the onions in advance so they get nice and soft and the savory oniony liquid leaches out perfectly to moisten the grains. Here is the recipe - make all the parts ahead, put it together later and reheat to serve:

BROWN RICE MUJADARA

  • 1/2 cup olive oil

  • 5-6 large yellow onions, peeled and sliced

  • 1 cup brown rice

  • water or stock

  • 1 cup lentils

  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin, optional

  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

  • salt to taste

Heat 4 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large sauté pan over low-medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes or until the onions are soft and brown. Spoon the onions into a container and cover the container. Refrigerate when cool if not serving the dish immediately. Place the rice in a saucepan, cover with 2 cups water or stock, bring to a boil, stir and cover the pan. Turn the heat to low and cook for about 30 minutes or until tender. Spoon the rice into a bowl. While the rice is cooking, place the lentils in a saucepan and cover with water or stock. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat, cover the pan and cook for about 25 minutes or until tender. Drain and add to the rice. Stir in the remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil. Add the cumin, if used and the parsley. Toss the ingredients. Add salt to taste. If serving immediately, stir in the onions with any accumulated juices, mix and serve. If serving at a later time, add the onions and juices, place in an ovenproof casserole and reheat, covered, in a preheated 350F degree oven (about 25 minutes).

Makes 6 servings

Just a Sandwich, Egg and Pesto

Sometimes you just want a sandwich for dinner, right? Maybe you’re tired or it’s too hot to cook or you want a quick meal. Whatever.

My Mom made sandwiches for dinner and so do I. It can be as satisfying as a tradtional dinner but much easier and such a good choice when you don’t feel like fussing.

Here’s one to try:

Avocado, Egg and Tomato Sandwich with Pesto Mayonnaise

  • 3 tablespoons mayonnaise

  • 4 teaspoons olive oil

  • 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

  • 1 small clove garlic, finely chopped

  • 4 slices Tuscan-Italian style bread

  • 2 teaspoons butter

  • 2 large eggs, beaten

  • 1 avocado, sliced

  • 1 tomato, sliced

In a bowl, combine the mayonnaise, olive oil, Parmesan cheese, basil and garlic and mix thoroughly. Refrigerate until ready to use (may be made 2 days ahead). Toast the bread slices lightly. While the bread is toasting, heat the butter in a small pan over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, pour in the eggs and cook, moving the egg around slightly to allow wet portions to reach the bottom of the pan. When the egg is almost cooked, flip it over, cook briefly and remove from the pan. Spread some of the pesto mayonnaise on 2 slices of the toasted bread. Top each with half the cooked egg. Top with slices of avocado and tomato. Cover with remaining bread slice. Cut sandwiches in half.

Makes 2 servings

Fish Cakes

Fish Cakes

A couple of years ago I wrote an article about salmon croquettes for the Nosher (My Jewish Learning). I acknowledged that salmon croquettes (latkes, patties) are not particularly elegant and not fashionable, and yet they are beloved in so many Jewish families. I don’t know anyone above a “certain age” whose mom or grandma did NOT make salmon latkes.

For me, salmon latkes are not only great food, they conjure many memories (they were my mother’s favorite — and last — meal). I make them the way my mom made them (the recipe is in the article link above).

And yet I also vary the recipe so much that I can’t, in good conscience, call them salmon latkes. First, because I don’t always use salmon. Second, I add a lot of extras that weren’t ever part of my mom’s original recipe.

Here’s one of my favorite variations. I make it with bluefish because I really love bluefish. But any fish will do.

Fish Cakes with Sun Dried Tomatoes

  • 2 medium Yukon gold potatoes

  • 2 cups crumbled cooked fish

  • 1 large egg

  • 1 thick scallion, finely chopped

  • 1/4 cup chopped black imported olives

  • 1/4 cup chopped sun dried tomatoes

  • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

  • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

  • salt and pepper to taste

  • all-purpose flour for dredging, about 1/4 cup

  • 2 tablespoon butter

  • 2 tablespoon olive oil

  • lemon quarters

Cut the potatoes into large chunks and cook them in lightly salted water for 12-15 minutes or until tender. Drain under cold water and peel. Mash the potatoes and place them in a bowl. Add the fish, egg, scallion, olives, tomatoes, parsley, mustard and salt and pepper to taste. Mix the ingredients to distribute them evenly. Shape portions of the mixture into 4 patties about 1/2-thick. Dredge the patties in the flour and shake off the excess. Heat the butter and olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the patties and cook for about 3 minutes per side or until hot, crispy and golden brown. Serve garnished with lemon quarters.

Makes 4 servings

Summer Salad with Blueberries

Whether it’s the hot weather or a meatless Monday, a good salad always comes in handy. This is one of my summer favorites:

BLUE SALAD (WITH GREEN)


1 head leaf lettuce or 6 cups mixed greens
1 cup blueberries
1 cup crumbled blue cheese
3 tablespoons chopped chives or scallion tops
1/3 cup olive oil (or use avocado oil)
3-4 tablespoons Balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup chopped toasted almonds, optional
Tear the lettuce into smaller pieces and place them in a salad bowl. Add the blueberries, cheese and chives and toss the ingredients. Pour in the olive oil and toss the ingredients again. Add 3 tablespoons of the Balsamic vinegar, toss and taste, add more Balsamic vinegar to taste. Serve and garnish with the toasted almonds if desired.

Makes 4-6 servings

Grandma's Baked Blintzes

One of my grandma’s signature dishes was blintzes. But the cheese filling she made was different than the classic sweet version (with vanilla and/or cinnamon). Her blintz filling was lemony, and included cheese, egg and a small amount of sugar. Also, because there were so many of us, she had no time to fry them a couple at a time and still have everyone eat at the same time. So she placed the blintzes, seam-side down, on a baking sheet, topped each with a little dab of butter, and baked them until they were golden brown. I still love blintzes, lemony and baked. And so does my family. Grandma’s cheese filling recipe is below, but the instructions give you the option to make the more popular vanilla version (and also how to fry them). Don’t worry if the wrappers don’t fry into perfect circles — you’re going to roll them and if they’re a little off, no one will ever know.

GRANDMA’s CHEESE BLINTZ FILLING:
1 pound farmer’s cheese
1 large egg
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon grated fresh lemon zest, optional (I always include)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract, optional

Place the cheese, egg, sugar and lemon juice in a bowl and mix thoroughly. Add the lemon zest OR vanilla extract and mix in thoroughly. To fill each wrapper: use the first fried side as the inside of the blintz. Use about 2 tablespoons of filling for an 8-inch wrapper and place the filling in the center of the wrapper. Fold the bottom side up, over the filling. Fold the left side, then the right side over the filling, then roll up to enclose the filling. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the blintzes in a single layer on a jelly roll pan, top each with a tiny piece of butter. Bake for about 10 minutes.

To fry: place the blintzes seam side down first over medium heat (using the same method as for frying the wrappers – let the butter melt and become foamy).

#blintzes #cheeseblintzes #shavuot #shavuot2024 #shavuos

Pierogies for a Delicious Dairy Dinner

After Father’s Day (heavy on the meat), I want a dairy dinner. These pierogies! One of my favorite meals. POTATO CHEESE PIEROGIS
FILLING:
3 cups mashed potatoes
2 tablespoons butter
1 large onion, chopped
1 cup farmer cheese
salt and black pepper to taste
Place the potatoes in a bowl. Heat the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter melts, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 12-15 minutes or until soft and golden. Add to the potatoes. Add the farmer cheese, salt and pepper and mix well. Set aside to cool. Use about one tablespoon filling for each pierogi. DOUGH: 3-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup butter, cut into chunks
1/2 cup water, approximately
1 cup dairy sour cream Place the flour and salt in a bowl. Add the butter and work it into the dough until crumbly. Add 1/2 cup of water and the sour cream and mix the dough until it is soft and well blended. If it seems too dry, add more water. (Or use a food processor.) Let the dough rest at least 30 minutes. Roll portions of dough on a floured surface to 1/8-inch thick and cut out circles with a 3-inch cookie cutter. To fill the pierogis: place filling in the center of each circle. Fold the circle in half, pinching the edges to seal. Heat 1 tablespoon butter plus 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter melts, add some of the pierogis (do not crowd the pan) and cook 3-4 minutes on the flat side, or until golden brown on the bottom, then turn them over and cook another 2-3 minutes or until golden. Repeat. Serve with sour cream. Makes about 4 dozen #pierogies #cheesepierogi #potatopierogies
#dairydinner

Blueberry Scones

Yesterday I did a cooking demo for a Tea Party at @newcanaan_ymca (for its Forever Well program). I prepared the essentials of Afternoon Tea: mini sandwiches and scones (some plain, some with blueberries). What fun we all had! And we feasted of course! Here’s the recipe for the scones: BLUEBERRY SCONES
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
2-1/4 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
6 tablespoons butter
1 large egg
1/2 cup buttermilk
1 cup blueberries
Turbinado sugar, optional
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Lightly grease a cookie sheet or line it with parchment paper. Combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and lemon zest in a bowl. Add the butter in chunks and work the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Mix the egg and buttermilk together and add them to the dry ingredients. Mix until a soft dough forms. Add the blueberries and gently mix the dough to incorporate them, taking care not to crush the fruit. Break the dough in half and place on a floured surface. Press each half into a circle about 3/4” thick. Cut each circle into six wedges and place on the prepared cookie sheet. Sprinkle with some turbinado sugar if desired. Bake for 12-15 minutes or until the scones are browned and well risen. Makes 12 #afternoontea #afternoonteatime #scones #sconesrecipe #blurberryscones #teatime

Perfect Buttermilk Biscuits

Every once in a while I post a recipe that includes buttermilk and invariably someone tells me that they don’t want to buy it just for this one recipe. But really, I promise! — once you have buttermilk in the house, you’re going to use it again. Because it is SO SO wonderful for so many things like cold soups and cole slaw and most especially for baked goods.

Like these biscuits, baked especially because today is National Buttermilk Biscuit Day. In case you hadn’t heard.

BUTTERMILK BISCUITS

  • 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour

  • 1/2 cup cake flour (or 7 tablespoons all-purpose flour plus 1 tablespoon cornstarch)

  • 2 teaspoons baking powder

  • 3/4 teaspoon salt

  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

  • 2 teaspoons grated fresh lemon zest, optional

  • 8 tablespoons cold butter

  • 2/3 cup buttermilk

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Lightly grease a baking sheet or line it with parchment paper. Sift the flour, cake flour, baking powder, salt and baking soda into a bowl. Stir in the lemon zest, if used. Cut the butter into chunks and add it to the bowl. Work the butter into the flour mixture with your fingers or a pastry blender until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs (or use the pulse in a food processor). Pour in the buttermilk and mix until you can form a soft ball of dough. Try not to pound or overwork the dough (this makes the biscuits tough). Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and knead a couple of times. Roll or press the dough gently to 1/2-inch thickness. Cut out circles with a cookie cutter or the bottom of a drinking glass. Place the circles one inch apart (for darker biscuits) or close together (for fluffier biscuits) on the baking sheet. Bake for about 20 minutes or until they have risen and are lightly browned. Makes about 10 #biscuits #buttermilkbiscuits #buttermilkbiscuitsfromscratch #buttermilk #nationalbuttermilkbiscuitday