Braised Breast of Veal

Climate change brings warmer winters, that’s for sure. But that doesn’t mean we can’t still enjoy the kind of rich, slow-cooked, hearty stew that we wanted when it snowed or it was bitterly cold outside!

I’ve made this dish using large cubes of veal but like it best with a whole breast (so I can gnaw on the bones).

BRAISED BREAST OF VEAL

• one breast of veal, about 3-1/2 pounds

• all-purpose flour

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 4 large carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2 large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2 medium onions, peeled and cut into chunks

• 1 large clove garlic, chopped

• 1 cup white wine

• 2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary (or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary)

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Rinse and dry the veal and press the meat into the flour to lightly coat the entire surface. Heat the vegetable oil in a large ovenproof saute pan or casserole over medium heat, add the meat and cook for about 4 minutes per side to brown the outside. Remove the meat to a plate and set aside. Add the carrots, potatoes and onions to the pan and cook for 3-4 minutes to cook them slightly. Add the garlic and cook briefly. Return the meat to the pan, moving the vegetables around so they sit on top of and around the meat. Pour in the wine. Place the rosemary sprigs in the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover the pan and place in an oven. Turn the heat to 275F OR keep the casserole on the cooktop, lower the heat and cook at a simmer for about 2 hours or until very tender.

Makes 4 servings 

Braised Chicken with Figs and Grapes

I recently bought a whole bunch of dried figs, dates, plums (prunes) and California apricots in preparation for a Tu B’Shevat food demo/class I am doing for Temple Beth El in Stamford, CT on Thursday, January 18th, 2024 (it’s free, so if you’re in the area, give us a call).

Tu B’Shevat is a joyous holiday, a kind of Earth Day, when we celebrate and try to be mindful of our planet and its resources. This was a day I remember my parents donating money to plant trees in Israel.

With its focus on earth’s bounty, the food for this holiday features lots of fruit, including those dried fruits I mentioned. Like this chicken dish, which is braised with apple cider (sometimes I use orange juice or orange-pineapple juice), seasoned with curry and ginger and of course, includes dried figs (though any dried fruit will do!).

braised CHICKEN WITH FIGS AND GRAPES

• 1-3/4 cups apple cider (or use orange or orange-pineapple juice)

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 6 bone-in pieces of chicken

• 1 shallot, chopped (or use a small onion)

• 1-1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger

• 1/2 cup diced dried figs (or use other dried fruit such as prunes, apricots, nectarines or dates)

• 2-1/2 teaspoons curry powder

• 1/4 teaspoon Aleppo pepper (or use 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper)

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 cup halved fresh grapes

• chopped fresh mint

• cooked bulgur wheat, rice or noodles, optional

Boil the cider for about 5 minutes or until it has reduced to 3/4 cup. Heat the vegetable oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the chicken and cook for 8-10 minutes, or until lightly browned, turning the pieces occasionally. Remove the chicken pieces and set them aside on a plate. Add the shallot, ginger and diced figs to the pan and cook for 1-2 minutes over low-medium heat. Return the chicken to the pan. Sprinkle the ingredients with curry powder, Aleppo pepper and salt and black pepper to taste. Pour in the reduced cider. Turn the pieces of chicken to coat all sides with the pan ingredients. Cover the pan, turn the heat to low and cook for 15 minutes. Add the grapes and cook for an additional 10 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through. Sprinkle with chopped fresh mint. Serve on a bed of cooked bulgur wheat, rice or noodles if desired.

Makes 4-6 servings

Pot Roast for the Win

It’s cold outside.

Also, the world is terrifyingly unstable.

I’m not in my usual mood of experimenting with new recipes — at least not for dinner — so we’ve been eating foods that are easy, familiar and comforting.

Like this chuck roast.

CHUCK POT ROAST

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 3-4 pound chuck roast

• 4-6 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

• 12-16 baby potatoes

• 2 medium onions, sliced

• 6-8 plum tomatoes, cut up

• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

• 1 cup red wine

• 1 cup beef broth

• salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 3-4 sprigs fresh thyme

Preheat the oven to 250F. Heat the olive oil in a large oven-proof casserole. Sear the meat surface on both sides (about 2-3 minutes per side) using heat heat on a cooktop. Remove the pan from the cooktop. Scatter the carrots, potatoes, onions, tomatoes and garlic over and around the meat. Pour in the wine and broth. Sprinkle the ingredients with salt and pepper. Place the thyme sprigs on top. Cover the casserole. Place in the oven. Cook for about 4 hours or until the meat is tender.

Makes 4-6 servings

The Easiest Eggplant Parmesan Ever

It’s that time of year, when my garden has produced just about all it’s going to. Some leaves and stems are already wilting and yellowing.

We’ve been feasting on tomatoes and eggplants.

I’ve made my annual hoard of pepper jam.

I’ll make tomato chutney with some of the dark green tomatoes (and let the ones that have a vague pink color ripen on the vine for a few days).

Last night I made Eggplant Parmesan with one of the gorgeous eggplants and San Marzano tomatoes I planted this year. It was the easiest version I’ve ever prepared.

Also the most delicious.

And light — I roast the eggplant slices rather than bread and fry them.

Do you think this was so good because the produce was fresh from my garden?

Maybe. But I think this recipe — so easy and so simple — would also be wondrous with store-bought stuff.

THE EASIEST EGGPLANT PARMESAN EVER

• 1 medium eggplant

• salt

• 4 tablespoons olive oil, approximately

• 1 onion, chopped

• 1 large clove garlic, chopped

• 8-10 plum tomatoes, sliced

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

• 1 cup ricotta cheese

• 1-1/2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese

• 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Slice the eggplant about 1/8-inch thick, sprinkle with salt and let rest for 20-30 minutes. Wipe the eggplant slices dry and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush each side of each slice of eggplant with a film of olive oil (you will need about 2 tablespoons of oil). Roast the slices for about 15 minutes, turning them once, or until they are softened. Remove from the oven. While the eggplant is roasting, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes, or until softened. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Add the tomatoes and basil and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2-3 minutes, or until the tomatoes have softened. Place the eggplant slices on the bottom of a baking dish (overlap the slices slightly). Spread the ricotta cheese on top of the eggplant slices. Spoon the cooked tomato mixture over the cheese. Cover with the mozzarella cheese, then sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until the cheese has melted and is beginning to turn lightly brown.

Makes 4 servings

Chick Pea, Dried Fruit and Vegetable Pilaf

We have been eating more vegetarian dishes recently — somehow just in the mood and don’t have as big a yen for meat.

Besides, vegetarian dishes are traditional for Purim, which begins at sundown on Monday, March 6, 2023, so the casserole recipe below is something for you to consider this year.

We had this dish a few times (variations) and loved the combination of tangy and sweet (dried fruit), the savory chick peas and the seasoned but just gently spicy flavors in the rice.

It’s also a good way to use up rice and chick peas if you don’t eat them during Passover.

And — it’s a good bet for Break-the-fast if (as we do) you have a dairy or vegetarian feast instead of the traditional smoked fish.

Chick Pea, Dried Fruit and vegetable Pilaf

• 1 15 ounce can chick peas, drained

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• salt, paprika

• 3-4 medium scallions (or use a yellow onion), chopped

• 1 large clove garlic, chopped

• 2 medium carrots sliced 1/2-inch thick

• 1/2 cup halved dates, preferably medjool

• 1/3 cup cut up dried apricots

• 1/3 cup golden raisins

• 1-1/2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

• 1 teaspoon cumin

• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

• pinch or two of Aleppo pepper (or use crushed red pepper or cayenne)

• 1 cup white rice

• 2 cups vegetable stock

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the chick peas on a parchment paper lined baking sheet, pour one tablespoon of the olive oil over them and toss to coat them. Sprinkle with salt and paprika. Roast for about 20 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, or until the chick peas are lightly crispy. When they are done, remove the chick peas from the oven, set them aside and turn the oven heat to 350 degrees. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large heat-proof, oven-proof pan over medium heat. Add the scallions, garlic and carrots and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the dates, apricots and raisins. Sprinkle with salt, cumin, coriander and Aleppo pepper, stir and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the rice and chick peas. Stir to distribute the ingredients evenly. Pour in the stock, bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover the pan and place in the oven. Bake for about 45 minutes. Let rest, covered, for 10 minutes.

Makes 4 servings

Pan Roasted Chicken with Rice

We are about to celebrate Purim, a joyous, raucous holiday — this year it begins at sundown March 6, 2023.

Everyone will be feasting on hamantashen of course. And maybe other triangular shaped foods that imitate Haman’s hat. But Queen Esther was married to King Ahasuerus, a Persian, so a a traditional Purim Seudah (feast) could also include some delicious dishes from that part of the world.

Here is my recipe for Pan Roasted Chicken with Rice Stuffing, a dish inspired by the flavors of Persia. Of course it’s suitable any tine, but it is a festive, flavorful entree that’s perfect for Purim.

Pan Roasted Chicken with Rice Stuffing

Stuffing:

• 1 cup white rice

• 1-3/4 cups water

• 1 medium leek

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 cup diced winter squash

• 1 stalk celery, chopped

• 1 tart apple, peeled, cored and chopped

• 1 cup chopped dried chopped dates

• 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the rice and water in a saucepan, bring to a boil over high heat and cook for one minute. Stir, turn the heat to lowest, cover the pan and cook for 18 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Trim the leek, discarding the thick, fibrous green leaves, and chop the tender green and white portion into small pieces. Set aside. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the squash and cook, stirring often, until the pieces are lightly crispy, about 3 minutes. Add the chopped leek and celery and cook for 2 minutes or until they have softened slightly. Remove the pan from the heat, add the cooled rice, apple, dates, thyme and salt and pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly and set aside (reheat later or keep in a warm oven).

Chicken:

• 1 broiler-fryer chicken cut into 8 pieces (or use legs, breasts, etc.)

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice or 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Rinse and dry the chicken parts. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat and cook the chicken, turning pieces once, for about 8 minutes, or until the skin is lightly browned. Mix the salt, pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and cayenne pepper and sprinkle over the chicken. Place the pan in the oven. Roast for about 15 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through (an instant-read thermometer should read 160°F). Spoon the stuffing onto a serving dish, top with chicken parts, drizzle the stuffing with any accumulated juices and serve.

Makes 4-6 servings.

Pot Pie

Is it too early to think about Thanksgiving?

Not for me. For the first time in a few years — Covid!!!! — I am finally having my old, usual crew for dinner. My family plus my brother and sister-in-law, their kids and one grand.

HURRAH!!!

So, I am already planning the menu and doing what I can ahead.

With all those people at the feast there may not be any leftover turkey this year. But just in case — I’ll use the meat for pot pie.

I make pot pie a lot because with only Ed and me for dinner most nights, there are leftovers all the time and pot pie is one of Ed’s favorites.

The recipe below is more or less the one I use. I change the herb, depending on what I have (I’ve used dill, basil, marjoram) and of course the veggies change depending on what’s also leftover or what’s in the fridge produce bin. You need about 3-4 cups of veggies plus the potato and onion.

Sometimes I make this without the meat — just add some more vegetables.

Thanksgiving leftovers? For sure. But why wait? This versatile recipe is an all-year handy one. Bonus: you can freeze pot pie to serve when you want to just pop something in the oven for dinner. Place the dough on top and freeze. Then, thaw and bake.

Pot Pie

• 2 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 1 medium Yukon Gold or other Eastern potato

• 2 carrots, sliced 1/4-inch thick

• 2 stalks celery, sliced 1/4-inch thick

• 1 cup bite-size zucchini chunks

• 1 cup corn kernels or peas

• 3 cups bite-size chopped cooked chicken, turkey, beef or veal

• 5 tablespoons all-purpose flour

• 3 cups chicken stock

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 2 teaspoons chopped thyme leaves

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• pie dough or thawed frozen puff pastry sheets

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, for 2-3 minutes or until softened. Add the potato, carrots and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes. Add the zucchini, corn and chicken and stir to distribute the ingredients evenly. Sprinkle the flour over the ingredients and stir to mix it in completely. Cook for 1-2 minutes, stirring frequently to let the flour absorb into the other ingredients. Pour in the stock gradually, stirring constantly. Raise the heat and bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the ingredients, stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes or until the sauce has thickened. Stir in the parsley and thyme and sprinkle to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the filling into a baking dish. Cover with the pie dough or puff pastry. Seal the edges to the dish. Cut 2-3 slits in the crust to allow steam to escape. Bake for about 35 minutes or until the crust is crispy and golden brown.

Makes 4 servings

Pashtida

If you haven’t tried Pashtida, you’re missing out. This dish — so popular in Israel — is kind of like a cross between a quiche, a frittata and a kugel. Sometimes it’s made with meat, sometimes dairy and sometimes just vegetables. Any way at all — this is one delicious treat!

Pashtida is filling and hearty enough for dinner (add a side salad) but light enough for lunch. It’s also the kind of dish that’s made for weekend brunch. Leftovers are good too — easily reheated for weekday breakfast.

If you’re looking for a new dairy dish for Shavuot (and, thinking ahead, during the Nine Days or for your Break-the-fast) I encourage you to try this one. My recipe is a melange of eggs, cheese and veggies that you spoon into a casserole and bake until the eggs are set and the top is crispy.

This dish is also amazingly versatile, so I’ve listed a variety of options for substitution.

Vegetable Pashtida

• 1 large Yukon Gold potato, peeled and diced

• 1 tablespoon butter

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 1 medium onion, chopped (3 scallions; 2 shallots)

• 1 cup chopped fresh: spinach; kale; (diced) zucchini; or chopped cooked veggies (such as green beans, carrots, bell pepper, asparagus; eggplant); or thawed frozen peas or corn

• Halved mini-tomatoes (such as grape or cherry; about 7-8); chopped sun-dried tomatoes, optional

• 4 tablespoons cream cheese, cut into small pieces (or 1/3 cup dairy sour cream or 1/2 cup cottage cheese)

• 5 large eggs

• 1 cup whole milk or half and half

• 1/2 cup shredded meltable cheese such as Swiss, cheddar, Havarti or mozzarella

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (dill, basil)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly grease a casserole dish (such as approximately 8”x 6” or a 6-cup round) and set aside. Cook the potatoes in lightly salted boiling water for about 3 minutes or until barely tender. Drain and set aside. Heat the butter and olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the onion and cook for a minute. Add the potato and cook for 5-6 minutes or until the pieces are lightly crispy, stirring occasionally. Add the vegetables and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they have softened. Add the tomatoes, if used, and cook for another minute. Add the cream cheese and continue to cook and stir until the cheese has melted into the vegetables. Remove the pan from the heat and let the ingredients cool slightly. Beat the eggs and milk together and pour over the vegetable-cream cheese mixture. Add the shredded cheese and stir gently until the ingredients are evenly distributed. Sprinkle to taste with salt, pepper and parsley. Spoon the ingredients into the prepared casserole dish. Bake for about 45 minutes or until the eggs are set and the top is crispy.

Makes 4-6 servings

Vegetarian Shepherd's Pie

Vegetarian Shepherd’s Pie

During the run-up to Purim, the media is loaded with recipes for hamantashen. (Of course!)

But, because historians have speculated that the heroine of this holiday, Queen Esther, was a vegetarian, meatless meals are also traditional.

A vegetarian version of classic Shepherd’s Pie is hearty and filling enough to convince even a hardcore meat eater. And it’s also a festive dish worthy of a celebratory meal.

Note to self: this dish also makes a splendid choice for Break-the-Fast after Yom Kippur.

Vegetarian Shepherd’s Pie*

•  6 medium all-purpose potatoes such as Yukon Gold

• 1/3 cup vegetable stock

• 4 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 cup lentils, preferably French green

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 3 carrots, chopped

• 12-14 ounces mushrooms, chopped

• 2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped

• 1 medium zucchini, cut into bite sized pieces

• 2 cups vegetable stock

• 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

• 2 tablespoons soy sauce

• 2 tablespoons cornstarch

• 1 cup frozen peas or cut up cooked green beans

• paprika 

Peel the potatoes, cut them into chunks and cook them in lightly salted water for about 15 minutes, or until they are fork tender. Drain the potatoes and mash them with a ricer or potato masher until the lumps have disappeared. Stir in the stock, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.  

Cook the lentils according to package directions. When the lentils are tender, drain them and set them aside.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrots, mushrooms and garlic and cook for about 3-4 minutes or until the vegetables have softened slightly. Add the zucchini and cook for another 1-2 minutes. Add the cooked lentils, vegetable stock, thyme and soy sauce. Bring to a boil. Mix the cornstarch with enough water to make a smooth paste. Add to the vegetable mixture. Stir and cook for 2-4 minutes or until the pan liquid has thickened. Stir in the peas. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat.

Place the vegetables in a lightly oiled baking dish. Cover the top with the mashed potatoes. Garnish with a sprinkle of paprika (can be cooked ahead up to this point).

Bake for 20-25 minutes or until the pie is hot and bubbling around the edges and the crust has browned lightly (if you make this ahead and refrigerate the dish, it may take 25-30 minutes to reheat).

Makes 8 servings

*a version of this dish appeared in The Jewish Week Food&Wine.

Fried Barley

Tu B’shevat, which starts at sundown on January 16th, reminded me that I have to make more barley, which is one of the traditional foods for this not particularly well-known Jewish holiday, otherwise known as New Year of the Trees.

We don’t eat barley often enough. Sure, I add it to soup, but it’s so good on its own — for salad and casseroles in particular — that it should be more of a standby.

I decided to make it like I do fried rice, except I added mushrooms, which I think overwhelms fried rice but pairs perfectly with whole grains.

So, this is actually a two-fer. I can make this for Tu B’shevat and also for Lunar New Year (February1st)(Year of the Tiger), because why not celebrate even if it’s not part of my heritage? Delicious food is appropriate any time.

Fried Barley

• 1 cup pearled barley

• 2-1/2 cups water

• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 3 large eggs, beaten

• 4-6 scallions, chopped

• 10-12 medium mushrooms (about 8 ounces), coarsely chopped

• 1 cup thawed frozen peas

• optional: chopped water chestnuts, cooked carrots, corn kernels

• kosher salt

Place the barley and the water in a saucepan, bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat, cover the pan and cook for about 45 minutes or until all the liquid has been absorbed. Let cool. Heat one tablespoon vegetable oil in a wok or stirfry pan over medium-high heat. Add the eggs and let set, then scramble the eggs slightly and turn them over to cook both sides completely. Remove the fried eggs from the pan and chop into bite size pieces. Set aside. Heat the remaining vegetable oil in the pan. Add the scallions and mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, for about 3 minutes, or until the mushrooms are soft and all the liquid has evaporated. Add the barley, breaking it up into separate kernels with a spatula or wooden spoon, and stir to incorporate the vegetables. Add the peas and optional ingredients, sprinkle with salt and cook, stirring often to distribute the ingredietns evenly, for 3-4 minutes or until the ingredients are hot.

Makes 4-6 servings