Braised Breast of Veal

Climate change brings warmer winters, that’s for sure. But that doesn’t mean we can’t still enjoy the kind of rich, slow-cooked, hearty stew that we wanted when it snowed or it was bitterly cold outside!

I’ve made this dish using large cubes of veal but like it best with a whole breast (so I can gnaw on the bones).

BRAISED BREAST OF VEAL

• one breast of veal, about 3-1/2 pounds

• all-purpose flour

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 4 large carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2 large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2 medium onions, peeled and cut into chunks

• 1 large clove garlic, chopped

• 1 cup white wine

• 2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary (or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary)

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Rinse and dry the veal and press the meat into the flour to lightly coat the entire surface. Heat the vegetable oil in a large ovenproof saute pan or casserole over medium heat, add the meat and cook for about 4 minutes per side to brown the outside. Remove the meat to a plate and set aside. Add the carrots, potatoes and onions to the pan and cook for 3-4 minutes to cook them slightly. Add the garlic and cook briefly. Return the meat to the pan, moving the vegetables around so they sit on top of and around the meat. Pour in the wine. Place the rosemary sprigs in the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover the pan and place in an oven. Turn the heat to 275F OR keep the casserole on the cooktop, lower the heat and cook at a simmer for about 2 hours or until very tender.

Makes 4 servings 

Borscht with Cauliflower

Borscht with Cauliflower

Like most everyone I know, I overindulged over the December holidays. So, it’s time for some austerity — caloriewise, healthwise — with the menu.

But I like good food. Tasty food. Filling, satisfying food that looks good enough to please.

This soup has it all. It’s a riff on classic Borscht — cabbage is the foundation of Borscht but I didn’t have any! So I used cauliflower. It’s in the cabbage family after all. Mishpocha maybe.

It was perfect.

Borscht with Cauliflower

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 1 clove garlic, chopped

• 2 medium-large beets, peeled and shredded

• 2 plum tomatoes, chopped

• 1 parsnip, peeled and shredded

• 2 cups cut up cauliflower

• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

• 6 cups vegetable stock

• 1 bay leaf

• 1 teaspoon salt or to taste

• freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 large Yukon gold potato, peeled and diced

• 3 tablespoons white vinegar, approximately

• 1-1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

• dairy sour cream or plain Greek style yogurt, optional

Heat the vegetable oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add the garlic, beets, tomatoes, parsnip, cauliflower and parsley and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes. Pour in the stock, add the bay leaf and salt and pepper to taste. Bring the liquid to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, one hour. Add the potato and cook for 45-60 minutes or until the vegetables have softened. Stir in the vinegar and dill and cook for 12-15 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, pepper or vinegar to taste. Remove the bay leaf. If the soup is cooked using vegetable stock, serve it garnished with a dollop of sour cream if desired. 

Makes 6-8 servings

Chicken Vegetable Soup

After all of the end-of-year holidays, a lot of us need to scale back eating and spending— which makes this Chicken Vegetable Soup such a winner. I make it with a leftover chicken carcass — there’s still plenty of meat on it (I’ve also used a turkey carcass). There are also lots of healthy vegetables (you could add others such as green beans) and a boost of chick peas (I’ve also used white beans; red beans would also be fine).

Like spicy? Add a bit of harissa or hot sauce to the liquid when you add the other seasonings.

This dish is filling, nourishing, uncomplicated and easy to make. Delicious too. And cheap.

Give it a try.

Chicken Vegetable Soup

• 1 28-ounce can tomatoes plus the liquid

• chicken carcass and scraps

• 3 carrots, peeled and sliced 1-inch thick

• 2 stalks celery, peeled, leaves included if available, and sliced 1-inch thick

• 1 medium onion, sliced

• water to cover (or use vegetable or chicken stock)

• salt and pepper

• 2-3 sprigs fresh thyme, marjoram or oregano

• 1 15-ounce can chick peas or white beans, drained

• 2 cups zucchini

Cut the canned tomatoes into smaller pieces; save the liquid from the can. Place the chicken carcass, carrots, celery, onion and tomatoes plus liquid in a soup pot. Add enough water to just cover the ingredients. Add salt, pepper and the chosen fresh herb and bring the liquid to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and simmer for 3-1/2 hours. Add the beans and zucchini and cook for another 20 minutes.

Makes 8-10 servings

Sweet and Sour Pot Roast

There are two truths about pot roast.

First, it’s not glamorous or gorgeous.

Second, it is delicious and satisfying.

So, with that in mind, please remember that the photo may not be an artist’s dream, but the food in it is always devoured because the recipe is big winner. And, while pot roast is ideal when the weather is cold or dreary, it’s so satisfying that it will do in just about any weather.

Sweet and Sour Pot Roast

• 3-4 tablespoons all purpose flour

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 3 pound chuck roast

• 4 tablespoons vegetable oil (I use avocado oil)

• 2 medium onions, sliced

• 2 large cloves garlic, chopped

• 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

• 1 1-pound 12-ounce can tomatoes (including liquid)

• 1/4 cup brown sugar

• 3 tablespoons cider vinegar

• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce (I use vegetarian Worcestershire sauce)

• 4-5 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2-3 medium all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

In a dish, mix the flour with some salt and pepper. Dredge the beef in the flour to coat it on all sides. Pour 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the meat and cook, turning the meat occasionally, for 6-8 minutes, to brown the surface. Remove the meat and set it aside. Add the remaining vegetable oil to the pan. Add the onions, garlic and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2-3 minutes. Add the tomatoes (and liquid), brown sugar, cider vinegar and Worcestershire sauce. Stir to blend the ingredients. Return the meat to the pan. Add the carrots and potatoes. Cover the pan and place it in the oven. Turn the heat to 275F. Cook for about 3 hours or until the meat is tender.

Makes 6 servings

Turkey Chili

Turkey Chili

When the weather starts to get cold I make hot, filling food. Like chili. I have lots of recipes because the basics are the same but the the recipe is so versatile that I can change it depending on my mood and on what ingredients I have.

For example:

1. the beans: red kidney, white cannelini, black beans are all fine — or any other. Dried and reconstituted or canned.

2. I usually choose ground turkey but you can use any ground meat (or chopped meat); best are: beef, veal or poultry. But you can make it meatless: try firm tofu or just use more beans, maybe two kinds.

3. make it spicier with chopped fresh chili pepper or less spicy with a mild chili powder

4. serve it with chips or mashed avocado (or sour cream for meatless)

Have it your way. It’s all good. Also — it lasts, so you can make it 2-3 days ahead and keep it in the fridge.

Note: a version of this recipe was originally published in The Jewish Week Food & Wine.

Turkey Chili

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 large onion, chopped

• 2 large cloves garlic, chopped

• 1 serrano (or other hot) pepper, deseeded and chopped, optional

• 16-20 ounces ground turkey

• 28 ounce can tomatoes, coarsely chopped, undrained

• 1/4 cup tomato paste

• 1/2 cup water or vegetable stock

• 2 teaspoons chili powder

• 2 teaspoons ground cumin

• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 15-19 ounce can white beans, drained

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and serrano pepper and cook briefly. Add the turkey and cook, stirring to break up the pieces, for 3-5 minutes, until the meat has turned color. Add the tomatoes with their juices, tomato paste, water, chili powder, cumin, oregano and salt and pepper to taste. Cover the pan and simmer for 1-1/2 hours. Stir in the beans. Cook uncovered for 30 minutes.

Makes 4 servings

Sweet-Sour Short Ribs

When it came to recipes, my mother always said “why change a winner?!” And I agree with her — sometimes. There are some recipes that I never change: my mother’s apple pie, my grandma’s challah, almond chicken nugget hors d’oeuvres and a few others. They’re too good to mess with.

But most of the time I tinker with ingredients, change seasonings, patchke a little. Or a lot.

Most of the time it works out delightfully.

Like the other day, when I went to make short ribs. I thought I had the appropriate wine, but I didn’t. I wasn’t in the mood for beer. Stock — to me it’s just a so-so flavor for short ribs, especially when you want them sweet-and-sour.

I did have a large container of pineapple juice though, so I decided on that!

As it turns out, pineapple juice contributes both sweet AND sour.

The short ribs were perfect.

I had added fresh ginger to the dish to give it a flash of citrusy-heat. The second time I made the recipe I used chili pepper instead of ginger. The dish was equally good.

My husband said both versions, similar in taste (but one slightly spicier) were the best short ribs he ever tasted.

Sweet-Sour Short Ribs

• 4 pounds boneless short ribs

• all-purpose flour

• 5-6 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 2 large onions, peeled and sliced

• 2 large cloves garlic, chopped

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger (or one teaspoon chopped fresh chili pepper)

• 1 cup bottled chili sauce

• 1 cup pineapple juice

• 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar

• 1/4 cup honey

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Coat the meat with a film of flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large pan or Dutch oven and cook the meat for 8-10 minutes, turning the pieces occasionally, or until they are lightly browned. Add 1-2 tablespoons more vegetable oil to the pan as needed to prevent sticking. Remove the meat and set it aside. Add 1-2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil to the pan. Add the onions, garlic and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5-6 minutes, or until the vegetables have softened slightly. Return the meat to the pan. Pour in the chili sauce, pineapple juice, apple cider vinegar and honey, stir to combine the ingredients, and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Turn the heat to low, cover the pan and cook for 3-1/2 to 4 hours or until the meat is very tender.

Makes 6-8 servings

Braised Short Ribs with Harissa

Yes, it’s March already! But it feels as if it’s been March for a year.

Doesn’t it?

Hasn’t it been?

Somehow this past year of endless March I’ve been less motivated and felt less creative. Or maybe it’s just that I feel safer, more comforted with the known, even when it comes to food.

So I’ve been less adventurous than usual with recipes.

And yet, the other day I went to prepare my tried-and-true recipe for short ribs and thought I’d do a little something different. Also, I had no tomato paste. I substituted ketchup and decided to jazz the dish up with some harissa.

What a difference! This dish is a wow! It might become the tried-and-true.

Braised Short Ribs with harissa

• 1/3 cup flour

• salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 teaspoon dried thyme (or a few sprigs of fresh thyme)

• 4 pounds bone-in short ribs

• 5-6 tablespoons olive oil

• 3 medium onions, cut into thick slices

• 4 carrots, cut into chunks

• 3 stalks celery, cut into chunks

• 2 cloves garlic, chopped

• 1/4 cup ketchup

• 2 teaspoons harissa paste

• 1-1/2 cups beef stock

• 1 cup red wine

• cooked noodles, rice or mashed potatoes, optional

Combine the flour, salt, pepper and thyme in a dish. Coat all surfaces of the short ribs with the flour mixture. Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the meat and cook, turning the pieces occasionally, for 8-10 minutes or until lightly crispy on all sides. Remove the meat and place the pieces in an oven casserole. Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Add the onions, carrots, celery and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for 5-6 minutes or until lightly crispy. Add the ketchup and harissa paste and stir them into the vegetables. Pour in the stock and wine, Stir and bring the liquid to a boil. Turn off the heat and pour the vegetables and liquid over the meat. Cover the casserole. Place in the oven. Turn the heat to 275 degrees. Cook for 3-4 hours or until the meat is very tender. Serve the meat with the vegetables and sauce by itself or over noodles, etc.

Makes 4 servings

Braised Flanken, Just Like Grandma Used to Make

We got over a foot of snow this week. That’s flanken weather. And I’m in the mood for plain old. No frills, no riffs.

This recipe is tried (many times) and true. No fuss, no bother. Good old fashioned eats. For cold weather. For comfort.

If you don’t have flanken, you can make the same recipe using “English cut” short ribs, large chunks of chuck or really any “stew” type beef.

Braised Flanken

• all-purpose flour

• salt, freshly ground black pepper, garlic salt and paprika

• 6 pieces flanken

• 4 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 2 medium onions, sliced

• 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

• 2 tablespoons tomato paste

• 4 large carrots, cut into chunks

• 2 large all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2 cups red wine

• 2-3 fresh thyme sprigs

Mix the flour with some salt, black pepper, garlic powder and paprika. Coat the meat with the flour mixture. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a saute pan over medium heat and cook on both sides for 5-6 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove the meat and set it aside on a plate. Pour the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil into the pan. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes, or until softened. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Mix the tomato paste into the ingredients. Return the meat to the pan. Add the carrots and potatoes. Pour in the wine. Place the thyme sprigs on top. Turn the heat to low. Cook for about 3 hours or until the meat is soft and tender.

Makes 4-6 servings

Chuck Pot Roast

When it comes to cuts of beef, I think chuck is one of the tastiest. It’s got lots of beefy, meaty flavor. It’s also comparatively cheap and, when cooked right, is as tender as a ripe peach.

Cooked right?

I have to confess that I like chewy meat so I grill chuck steaks and love it!

But most folks prefer meat more tender, and chuck, which has lots of gristle, does better when slow-cooked in low heat.

It’s best when braised: stew, pot roast, soups, pot pie and casseroles.

Now that it’s getting cold and dark early where I live, this dish will be on my menu for the next few months of culinary comfort.

Chuck Pot Roast

• 3 pound chuck roast

• 4-6 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2-3 medium all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2 parsnips, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2 medium onions, sliced

• 4 ounces mushrooms, cut into chunks

• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

• 1 bottle (about 11 ounces) beer, ale or stout

• salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 3-4 sprigs fresh thyme

Place the meat inside a large casserole. Scatter the carrots, potatoes, parsnips, onions, mushrooms and garlic over and around the meat. Pour in the beer. Sprinkle the ingredients with salt and pepper. Place the thyme sprigs on top. Cover the casserole. Place the covered casserole in the oven and turn the heat to 250 degrees. Cook for 4-5 hours or until the meat is tender.

Makes 4-6 servings

Kosher Baked Beans and "Bacon"

It’s really cold outside.

Really cold.

And yesterday there was a snow squall. Cold, snowy and blowy with no visibility for about a half hour.

I can’t complain though. It’s MUCH colder in the midwest.

Also my house is nice and warm and toasty.

And I have these baked beans for dinner. Real, authentic Boston baked beans with bacon. Ok, kosher bacon. There are many brands to choose from, but I used Abeles & Heymann’s newish chunk beef bacon because Seth Leavitt, A&H owner, gave me a piece of it a while ago. He said “go experiment.” Which I did. And out came these fabulous beans.

Dinner. Add a green vegetable.

Just like in Colonial times (minus the green vegetable).

Btw, this is a good dish for Superbowl parties — by itself, but it’s also a nice accompaniment to chicken wings.

Kosher Baked Beans and “Bacon”

• 1 pound dried navy or great northern beans

• water

• 6 ounces kosher bacon, cut into chunks

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 1/2 cup ketchup

• 1/3 cup honey

• 1/4 cup molasses

• 4 whole cloves

• 2 teaspoons powdered mustard

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

Place the beans in a large saucepan and cover them with water. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and cook for 2 minutes.  Remove the pan from the heat and let the beans soak for one hour. Drain the beans and return them to the pot. Cover the beans again with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and simmer for 45 minutes. (Alternatively, cover the beans with water and let them soak for at least 8 hours.) Drain. Place the beans in a casserole. Add the bacon, onion, ketchup, honey, molasses, cloves, mustard and salt and mix thoroughly to blend the ingredients. Stir in 3 cups water. Pour the mixture over the bean mixture. Cover the casserole and put it in the oven. Set the temperature at 300 degrees and cook the beans at least 4 hours, or until they are tender, stirring them occasionally and adding water, if necessary to keep the beans moist. 

 Makes 8 servings