Pureed Borscht

I have several really good recipes for borscht: seasoned with cumin and rye bread crumbs; made with cauliflower instead of cabbage; seasoned with orange and mint. It’s one of my favorite soups and actually kind of a miracle because it’s just as good and pleasing when it’s chunky and served hot during the cold winter months and equally wonderful and satisfying when it’s pureed and served cold during the summer.

Try this version next time you have a yen for borscht:

Classic Borscht

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 1 large onion, chopped

• 4 medium beets, peeled and shredded

• 3 tomatoes, chopped

• 2 parsnips, peeled and shredded

• 2 carrots, peeled and shredded

• 2 stalks celery, sliced

• 1/2 medium green cabbage, shredded

• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

• 8 cups vegetable stock

• 1 bay leaf

• 1-1/2 teaspoons salt or to taste

• freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 3 all-purpose potatoes, peeled and diced

• 6 tablespoons white vinegar, approximately

• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

• dairy sour cream or plain Greek style yogurt

• chopped chives or scallion tops for garnish

Heat the vegetable oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add the beets, tomatoes, parsnips, carrots, celery, cabbage and parsley and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5-6 minutes. Pour in the stock, add the bay leaf and salt and pepper to taste. Bring the liquid to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, one hour. Add the potatoes and cook for 45 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and dill and cook for 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, pepper or vinegar to taste. Remove the bay leaf. Puree the soup and chill for at least one hour or until cold. Serve garnished with a dollop of sour cream and chopped chives.

 Makes 10 servings

Borscht with Cauliflower

Borscht with Cauliflower

Like most everyone I know, I overindulged over the December holidays. So, it’s time for some austerity — caloriewise, healthwise — with the menu.

But I like good food. Tasty food. Filling, satisfying food that looks good enough to please.

This soup has it all. It’s a riff on classic Borscht — cabbage is the foundation of Borscht but I didn’t have any! So I used cauliflower. It’s in the cabbage family after all. Mishpocha maybe.

It was perfect.

Borscht with Cauliflower

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 1 clove garlic, chopped

• 2 medium-large beets, peeled and shredded

• 2 plum tomatoes, chopped

• 1 parsnip, peeled and shredded

• 2 cups cut up cauliflower

• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

• 6 cups vegetable stock

• 1 bay leaf

• 1 teaspoon salt or to taste

• freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 large Yukon gold potato, peeled and diced

• 3 tablespoons white vinegar, approximately

• 1-1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

• dairy sour cream or plain Greek style yogurt, optional

Heat the vegetable oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add the garlic, beets, tomatoes, parsnip, cauliflower and parsley and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes. Pour in the stock, add the bay leaf and salt and pepper to taste. Bring the liquid to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, one hour. Add the potato and cook for 45-60 minutes or until the vegetables have softened. Stir in the vinegar and dill and cook for 12-15 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, pepper or vinegar to taste. Remove the bay leaf. If the soup is cooked using vegetable stock, serve it garnished with a dollop of sour cream if desired. 

Makes 6-8 servings

Green Tomato, Grape and Apple Chutney

By some extraordinary piece of luck, every year a tomato plant that I never planted pops up and makes its appearance in my garden.

The plant grows and grows into a jungle with stalks that I hold up with a multitude of stakes and ties. It reminds me of Jack and the Beanstalk (am I dating myself with that one?). And the stalks are loaded, absolutely loaded, with what becomes the sweetest, most delicious cherry tomatoes ever.

I am guessing that the thing grows from a seed or two that must have planted itself from either some other plant somewhere (but not my garden because I don’t have other plants with this variety of tomato) or maybe from the remains of some outdoor patio lunch or dinner at which I served that kind of tomato.

Whatever the reason, the plant comes back every year in the same place, just as thick and fecund as ever.

Nature is glorious.

But of course, after a while the cold weather comes and dozens of tomatoes are still growing and I have to harvest them before the frost. They’re green of course, so, what to do?

In past years I’ve breaded and fried the small green tomatoes. These glorious tidbits are crunchy outside and soft inside and when you bite into them you get a spurt of fresh, tart tomato juice. They are really good as hors d’oeuvre.

I’ve also used the tomatoes to make chutney. I cooked this new version recently, because I had some apples and grapes on hand.

We love chutney as a side relish with roasted meat and chicken. I also serve it on crackers spread with a bit of cream cheese and have used a thin layer on top of cheese to make a super delicious and unusual grilled cheese sandwich.

Green Tomato, Grape and Apple Chutney

• 2 cups green cherry tomatoes, halved (or use chopped green tomatoes)

• 2 cups seedless grapes

• 1 cup raisins

• 2 apples, peeled, cored and diced

• 2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped

• 3 large cloves of garlic, finely chopped

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger

• 1 cup apple cider vinegar

• 1 cup brown sugar

• 1/2 cup water

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

• 2 dried chili peppers (or one small chopped fresh chili pepper)

• 2 teaspoons mustard seeds

• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

Place the tomatoes, grapes, raisins, apples, onions, garlic, ginger, vinegar, brown sugar, water, salt, chili peppers, mustard seed and coriander in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 2-1/2 to 3 hours or until very thick.

 Makes about one quart