Braised Breast of Veal

Climate change brings warmer winters, that’s for sure. But that doesn’t mean we can’t still enjoy the kind of rich, slow-cooked, hearty stew that we wanted when it snowed or it was bitterly cold outside!

I’ve made this dish using large cubes of veal but like it best with a whole breast (so I can gnaw on the bones).

BRAISED BREAST OF VEAL

• one breast of veal, about 3-1/2 pounds

• all-purpose flour

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 4 large carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2 large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2 medium onions, peeled and cut into chunks

• 1 large clove garlic, chopped

• 1 cup white wine

• 2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary (or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary)

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Rinse and dry the veal and press the meat into the flour to lightly coat the entire surface. Heat the vegetable oil in a large ovenproof saute pan or casserole over medium heat, add the meat and cook for about 4 minutes per side to brown the outside. Remove the meat to a plate and set aside. Add the carrots, potatoes and onions to the pan and cook for 3-4 minutes to cook them slightly. Add the garlic and cook briefly. Return the meat to the pan, moving the vegetables around so they sit on top of and around the meat. Pour in the wine. Place the rosemary sprigs in the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover the pan and place in an oven. Turn the heat to 275F OR keep the casserole on the cooktop, lower the heat and cook at a simmer for about 2 hours or until very tender.

Makes 4 servings 

Osso Buco without Tomatoes

I love a cooking challenge. Whether it’s because a meal needs to be kosher or because someone is allergic to walnuts or doesn’t eat meat or hates potatoes, I am up for the task.

So, it was interesting for me to come up with this year’s new year’s menu when my cousins come. They will be houseguests for several days.

Our New Year’s eve day (which also includes my brother and sister-in-law) starts early and is all about hors d’oeuvres - groups of nibbles several hours apart. No actual “dinner.”

First up: almond crusted chicken nuggets, hot dog en croute, rumaki — maybe more.

Later: smoked salmon and avocado toasts, cheese gougeres, Romanian cheese turnovers, hummus.

and then dessert in the late evening. Probably Roasted Pears with Orange-Maple Sauce or Chocolate Pudding (in a pie crust). Or both.

There’s enough variety to assure everyone will be happy.

But in between days I need to consider food restrictions including: no tomatoes.

We all love Osso Buco, but classic recipes, including mine, are loaded with tomatoes. So I spent the last month making recipe after recipe — no tomatoes. All were absolutely delicious. I made versions with red wine or white, beef stock or chicken; some with a strip of lemon peel, some without, some with mushrooms.

This is the one I will be serving — note that I usually serve Osso Buco on top of mamaliga, but corn meal is also verboten, hence, the egg noodles.

Happy new year everyone.

Osso Buco (Sans tomatoes)

• 4 pieces veal shank

• 3-4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

• 6 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil, approximately

• 2 carrots, peeled and chopped

• 1-2 stalks celery, chopped

• 1 large onion, peeled and chopped

• 2 cloves garlic, chopped

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or rosemary

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 strip lemon peel, about 2-inches long

• 1 cup red wine

• 1 cup beef stock

Coat each piece of veal with some flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in an ovenproof saute pan or casserole over medium heat. Cook the coated veal shanks for 6-7 minutes, or until lightly browned on each side. Add 1-2 tablespoons more oil as needed to prevent sticking. Remove the shanks to a dish and set aside. Add 2 more tablespoons olive oil to the pan. Add the carrots, celery and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes, or until lightly softened. Add the garlic and mix it in. Return the shanks to the pan and spoon the vegetables on top. Sprinkle with the parsley, thyme and salt and pepper to taste. Add the lemon peel. Pour in the wine and stock. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover the pan. Remove the casserole to the oven. Set the temperature to 325 degrees. Cook for about 1-1/2 to 2 hours or until the meat is soft. Serve the shanks with the pan fluids and vegetables.

Makes 4 servings