Sweet-Sour Short Ribs

When it came to recipes, my mother always said “why change a winner?!” And I agree with her — sometimes. There are some recipes that I never change: my mother’s apple pie, my grandma’s challah, almond chicken nugget hors d’oeuvres and a few others. They’re too good to mess with.

But most of the time I tinker with ingredients, change seasonings, patchke a little. Or a lot.

Most of the time it works out delightfully.

Like the other day, when I went to make short ribs. I thought I had the appropriate wine, but I didn’t. I wasn’t in the mood for beer. Stock — to me it’s just a so-so flavor for short ribs, especially when you want them sweet-and-sour.

I did have a large container of pineapple juice though, so I decided on that!

As it turns out, pineapple juice contributes both sweet AND sour.

The short ribs were perfect.

I had added fresh ginger to the dish to give it a flash of citrusy-heat. The second time I made the recipe I used chili pepper instead of ginger. The dish was equally good.

My husband said both versions, similar in taste (but one slightly spicier) were the best short ribs he ever tasted.

Sweet-Sour Short Ribs

• 4 pounds boneless short ribs

• all-purpose flour

• 5-6 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 2 large onions, peeled and sliced

• 2 large cloves garlic, chopped

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger (or one teaspoon chopped fresh chili pepper)

• 1 cup bottled chili sauce

• 1 cup pineapple juice

• 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar

• 1/4 cup honey

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Coat the meat with a film of flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large pan or Dutch oven and cook the meat for 8-10 minutes, turning the pieces occasionally, or until they are lightly browned. Add 1-2 tablespoons more vegetable oil to the pan as needed to prevent sticking. Remove the meat and set it aside. Add 1-2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil to the pan. Add the onions, garlic and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5-6 minutes, or until the vegetables have softened slightly. Return the meat to the pan. Pour in the chili sauce, pineapple juice, apple cider vinegar and honey, stir to combine the ingredients, and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Turn the heat to low, cover the pan and cook for 3-1/2 to 4 hours or until the meat is very tender.

Makes 6-8 servings

Braised Short Ribs with Harissa

Yes, it’s March already! But it feels as if it’s been March for a year.

Doesn’t it?

Hasn’t it been?

Somehow this past year of endless March I’ve been less motivated and felt less creative. Or maybe it’s just that I feel safer, more comforted with the known, even when it comes to food.

So I’ve been less adventurous than usual with recipes.

And yet, the other day I went to prepare my tried-and-true recipe for short ribs and thought I’d do a little something different. Also, I had no tomato paste. I substituted ketchup and decided to jazz the dish up with some harissa.

What a difference! This dish is a wow! It might become the tried-and-true.

Braised Short Ribs with harissa

• 1/3 cup flour

• salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 teaspoon dried thyme (or a few sprigs of fresh thyme)

• 4 pounds bone-in short ribs

• 5-6 tablespoons olive oil

• 3 medium onions, cut into thick slices

• 4 carrots, cut into chunks

• 3 stalks celery, cut into chunks

• 2 cloves garlic, chopped

• 1/4 cup ketchup

• 2 teaspoons harissa paste

• 1-1/2 cups beef stock

• 1 cup red wine

• cooked noodles, rice or mashed potatoes, optional

Combine the flour, salt, pepper and thyme in a dish. Coat all surfaces of the short ribs with the flour mixture. Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the meat and cook, turning the pieces occasionally, for 8-10 minutes or until lightly crispy on all sides. Remove the meat and place the pieces in an oven casserole. Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Add the onions, carrots, celery and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for 5-6 minutes or until lightly crispy. Add the ketchup and harissa paste and stir them into the vegetables. Pour in the stock and wine, Stir and bring the liquid to a boil. Turn off the heat and pour the vegetables and liquid over the meat. Cover the casserole. Place in the oven. Turn the heat to 275 degrees. Cook for 3-4 hours or until the meat is very tender. Serve the meat with the vegetables and sauce by itself or over noodles, etc.

Makes 4 servings

California-Cabernet-Braised Short Ribs with Winter Squash and Dried Cranberries

What’s in a name? 

Not much, according to Shakespeare’s Juliet who famously told Romeo:

“That which we call a rose

By any other name would smell as sweet.”

But apparently, when it comes to food, a name can make a big difference. So, for example, Chocolate Cake may get plenty of takers, but “Heirloom, Fudge-Lacquered Chocolate Decadence” would get more. 

Recently there was an article in the New York Post decrying some menu and food descriptions that were beginning to sound overused and over-the-top. It mentioned “artisinal” and “heirloom” among others.

And the writer asked “can we just eat already?”

Well, there have always been culinary buzzwords. Check out some old-time cookbooks and you’ll find entries for things like “Best Ever” Sugar Cookies and “Savory Stuffed Veal.”

The words didn’t actually mean much. Maybe the cookies were the best ever and maybe not. But they sounded better. And what was savory about the veal? Would anyone have expected veal to be something other than savory?

I remember when Chinese food was the rage in America. The names of the new (to us) dishes were awesome and appealing! “Dragon and Phoenix” sounded sublime. Much much better than “fried cut up chicken and shrimp,” which is what that is. 

I think it was ever since that time that the high-flung adjectives and nouns took on new life in the food biz. Ever since we’ve been entranced with “pesto” everything and foods that are “pan-roasted” and salads that include “shaved” Parmigiana and “Balsamic infused you-name-it” and “dried shiitake mushroom dusted something-or-others.”

So the current trend to use descriptors like “artisinal” and “bespoke” and “house-made” are really just more of same though maybe a bit grander and more self-aggrandizing these days.

I mean, really, can a big, national chain like Domino’s really serve “artisinal” pizza?

I like to use fancy names once in a while too. My grandma served me gedemfte fleish and my mother served it as Pot Roasted beef. But I always call the dish California-Cabernet-Braised Short Ribs with Winter Squash and Dried Cranberries. Doesn’t that sound nice?

California-Cabernet-Braised Short Ribs with Winter Squash and Dried Cranberries

4 pounds short ribs (with bone)

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 medium onions, coarsely chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

2 cups California Cabernet wine

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into chunks

1 cup dried cranberries

Rinse and dry the meat. Dredge the meat in the flour to coat all surfaces. Heat the vegetables oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Cook the ribs in batches, leaving ample space between them so that they can brown properly. Remove the ribs as they brown and set aside in a plate. Continue until all the ribs have been browned. Add the onions to the pan, lower the heat and cook for 3-4 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for another minute. Return the meat and any accumulated juices to the pan. Pour in the wine. Sprinkle to taste with salt and pepper. Cover the pan. Cook at a simmer for 2-1/2 to 3 hours or until the meat is tender. Remove the meat to a dish. Skim the fat from the pan fluids. Return the meat to the pan. Add the squash chunks and dried cranberries. Cook, covered, for another 30 minutes or until the squash is tender. Makes 4 servings