Chuck Pot Roast

When it comes to cuts of beef, I think chuck is one of the tastiest. It’s got lots of beefy, meaty flavor. It’s also comparatively cheap and, when cooked right, is as tender as a ripe peach.

Cooked right?

I have to confess that I like chewy meat so I grill chuck steaks and love it!

But most folks prefer meat more tender, and chuck, which has lots of gristle, does better when slow-cooked in low heat.

It’s best when braised: stew, pot roast, soups, pot pie and casseroles.

Now that it’s getting cold and dark early where I live, this dish will be on my menu for the next few months of culinary comfort.

Chuck Pot Roast

• 3 pound chuck roast

• 4-6 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2-3 medium all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2 parsnips, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2 medium onions, sliced

• 4 ounces mushrooms, cut into chunks

• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

• 1 bottle (about 11 ounces) beer, ale or stout

• salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 3-4 sprigs fresh thyme

Place the meat inside a large casserole. Scatter the carrots, potatoes, parsnips, onions, mushrooms and garlic over and around the meat. Pour in the beer. Sprinkle the ingredients with salt and pepper. Place the thyme sprigs on top. Cover the casserole. Place the covered casserole in the oven and turn the heat to 250 degrees. Cook for 4-5 hours or until the meat is tender.

Makes 4-6 servings

Chicken Fricassee, the Un-Brisket Choice for Rosh Hashanah

Chicken Fricassee

My friends are always surprised that I don't usually serve brisket on Rosh Hashanah. In fact, they used to tell me it is heresy. Everyone knows that brisket is the big, big, popular, festive and impressive-looking main course for the New Year! So they ask -- how come it's not what I do?

Well, my grandma always made turkey. So did my mother. So I guess turkey is the tradition in our family and I just follow suit.

But I have to confess, after all the teasing I've gotten over the years I began to think that turkey was kind of strange and that I was doing something bizarre.

Until recently.

Because I read an article by Joan Nathan in Tablet about this very thing. 

She said that before the Civil War, brisket was not the usual Rosh Hashanah specialty, and that it was only after refrigerated trains could carry meat more quickly and easily across the country that this big hunk of meat became a holiday specialty. Before that, she said, Jewish home cooks might prepare dishes such as chicken fricassee for the occasion.

YESYESYES!

It conjured up glorious memories of my mother's (and grandmother's) chicken fricassee. Did they serve that also during the holidays? I don't remember. All I know is that after I read the article I went out and bought the necessary items for chicken fricassee and made a big batch. I was going to freeze it in portions for the holidays but my daughter Gillian and her kids came for a surprise visit and my fricassee was cooling down before the big freeze.

We ate it for dinner. At first Gillian was reluctant because she and my other daughter, Meredith, refused to eat chicken fricassee when they were girls. "Too soft!" "Too wet!"

They used to make fun of me for loving it.

But that's what I had in the fridge the day of the surprise visit so that's what we ate for dinner that night.

Guess what? Gillian loved it! And said she changed her mind.

Tastes do change over the years.

That's why people eat brisket for Rosh Hashanah now, rather than fricassee. And for some terrific ideas about preparing the best brisket ever, click here.

But maybe it's time to reconsider Chicken Fricassee for the holidays? I will offer it as an option when my family comes.

Chicken Fricassee

• 16-20 ounces chopped beef, veal, turkey or a combination
• 1/2 cup plain dry bread crumbs or matzo meal
• 1 large egg
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 12 chicken wings, cut into sections
• 3 medium onions, sliced
• 1 pound chicken gizzards
• 1 tablespoon paprika
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 cups water, approximately
• 4 medium all purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into small chunks, optional
• 4 carrots, cut into chunks, optional
• 10 ounces coarsely cut mushrooms, optional

In a large bowl, combine the chopped meat, bread crumbs and egg and mix thoroughly. Shape the meat mixture into 1-1/2 inch balls and set aside. Pour the vegetable oil into a large saute pan over medium heat. Cook the meatballs for 6-8 minutes, turning them occasionally, or until lightly browned on all sides. Remove the meatballs from the pan and set aside. Add the wings and cook them for 6-8 minutes, turning them occasionally, or until lightly browned. Remove the wings from the pan and set aside. Add the onions and gizzards to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4-5 minutes or until golden and softened. Return the wings and meatballs to the pan. Sprinkle the ingredients with the paprika, salt and pepper. Toss the ingredients gently to season the meats evenly. Pour in 1-1/2 cups water. Turn the heat to low, cover the pan and cook for 35-40 minutes. Add the optional ingredients if desired, cover the pan and cook an additional 50-60 minutes. Check the pan occasionally and turn the ingredients gently. Check fluid levels and add more water if needed.

Makes 8 servings

Osso Buco

Osso Buco for the lady …

Remember that old TV ad? A waiter (or maybe it’s the chef) is carrying two dinner plates and he puts one in front of a woman and says “Osso Buco for the lady” with a great big grin on his face and she seems pretty happy too.

I don’t know why that ad flashes through my mind occasionally like some old dream that I half remember.

But what I can’t remember is if it was an ad for toothpaste (the toothpaste will clean away the tomato sauce stain). Or whether it was for Alka Seltzer (which wouldn’t say very much for the food, would it?). 

I did a Google search but came up with no information. 

But I think about this ad every time I make Osso Buco, one of my favorite winter dishes. It’s a comforting, hearty, warming and nourishing dinner. I make a big batch in advance, wrap portions in plastic containers so that every time I need a quick dinner there is one I can take out of cold storage.

Veal shanks can be expensive, for sure. I wait for a sale, buy lots and then cook.

I also serve Osso Buco for company. It’s a beautiful dinner that’s rustic but fancy too, especially over risotto or pasta. Pasta’s easier, so that’s usually the way for me.

Osso Buco

4 large or 8 small veal shanks, 2” thick

1/4 cup flour

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 carrot, finely chopped

1 onion, finely chopped

1 stalk celery, finely chopped

1 large clove garlic, finely chopped

1 strip lemon peel 1-1/2” long

1/2 cup white wine

1/2 cup veal or beef stock

2 tomatoes, peeled, deseeded and chopped (or use canned tomatoes)

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste

freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh marjoram or oregano or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

Dredge the veal shanks in the flour. Shake off excess flour. Heat the olive oil in a deep sauté pan over medium heat. Brown the meat, cooking for about about 12 minutes, turning the shanks occasionally. Remove the meat from the pan. Add the carrot, onion, celery and garlic and cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the lemon peel, wine, stock, tomatoes and tomato paste to the pan. Bring the ingredients to a simmer. Return the meat to the pan. Sprinkle the ingredients with the salt, pepper and marjoram (or other herb). Cover the pan and simmer gently over low heat for about 2 hours or until the meat is very tender. Makes 4 servings