Roasted Fish with Tomatoes, Olives and Basil

“I loves you Porgy……” a lovely aria from Gershwin’s opera, Porgy and Bess of course.

But mostly I love porgy, the fish species, which should be coming to market soon, where I live.

Actually I love all fish. My husband — not so much. My cousin who is coming to stay with us over Memorial Day weekend - she loves fish too. Her husband — not so much.

But both men do like fish that’s covered and baked with lots of flavorful ingredients such as olives, tomatoes, onions and fresh herbs.

So this dish is on the menu. I’ll probably be making it with branzino, which is widely available, but it’s a perfect way to prepare lots of different kinds of fish (see the recipe).

Roasted Fish with Tomatoes, Olives and basil

• 4 fish filets such as porgy, branzino, hake, grouper, halibut, cod or sea bass about 5-6 ounces each, or 24 ounce large filet

• 1-1/2 tablespoons olive oil

• salt to taste

• Aleppo pepper (or use cayenne or crushed red pepper) or freshly ground black pepper

• 3 large plum tomatoes, chopped

• 1/3 cup chopped red onion

• 1/2 cup mixed pitted olives

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• 2 teaspoons grated fresh lemon peel

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the fish in a baking pan. Coat the surface with the olive oil and sprinkle with salt and (Aleppo) pepper. Scatter the tomatoes, onion, olives and basil over the fish. Sprinkle with lemon juice and lemon peel. Bake for 12-18 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish, or until the fish is cooked through.

Makes 4 servings

Salmon and Farro Salad

We’re big on main course salads in our family. They’re usually easy, unfussy and filling. I also like that I can make them in advance.

I’ve made  numerous versions of this particular salad: I love farro but have also used barley, couscous and wheatberries. I change up the cheese, depending on what I have, and use red onions or shallots if I need my scallions for something else.

Of course I have also made this all-veggie or no-meat, replacing the salmon (or any other cooked fish) with cooked eggs, carrots, peas and zucchini.

This is such a versatile dish! Best served at room temperature.

Salmon and Farro Salad

• 12 ounces fresh salmon*

• olive oil or vegetable oil

• 1 cup farro

• 2-1/2 cups water

• 1 ripe avocado, cut into bite size pieces

• 3/4 cup crumbled feta, goat or blue cheese

• 2-3 scallions, chopped

• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano

• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint

• 1/4 cup vegetable oil

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat a grill, broiler or grill pan. Brush the salmon with a film of vegetable oil and grill, broil or pan-broil for about 4 minutes per side or until cooked to desired consistency. Remove the fish from to a cutting board, cut into chunks and set aside to cool slightly. While the salmon is cooking, place the farro in a saucepan and cover with the water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat, cover the pan and simmer for about 25 minutes or until the grain is cooked but still slightly chewy. Drain any remaining liquid. Place the cooked farro into a mixing bowl. Add the fish, avocado, cheese, scallions, oregano and mint. Toss gently to distribute the ingredients evenly. In a small bowl mix the vegetable oil, lemon juice and white wine vinegar. Pour over the ingredients and toss. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Let rest for 10-15 minutes before serving.

*you can use drained, canned salmon

 Makes 4 servings

Braised Short Ribs with Harissa

Yes, it’s March already! But it feels as if it’s been March for a year.

Doesn’t it?

Hasn’t it been?

Somehow this past year of endless March I’ve been less motivated and felt less creative. Or maybe it’s just that I feel safer, more comforted with the known, even when it comes to food.

So I’ve been less adventurous than usual with recipes.

And yet, the other day I went to prepare my tried-and-true recipe for short ribs and thought I’d do a little something different. Also, I had no tomato paste. I substituted ketchup and decided to jazz the dish up with some harissa.

What a difference! This dish is a wow! It might become the tried-and-true.

Braised Short Ribs with harissa

• 1/3 cup flour

• salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 teaspoon dried thyme (or a few sprigs of fresh thyme)

• 4 pounds bone-in short ribs

• 5-6 tablespoons olive oil

• 3 medium onions, cut into thick slices

• 4 carrots, cut into chunks

• 3 stalks celery, cut into chunks

• 2 cloves garlic, chopped

• 1/4 cup ketchup

• 2 teaspoons harissa paste

• 1-1/2 cups beef stock

• 1 cup red wine

• cooked noodles, rice or mashed potatoes, optional

Combine the flour, salt, pepper and thyme in a dish. Coat all surfaces of the short ribs with the flour mixture. Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the meat and cook, turning the pieces occasionally, for 8-10 minutes or until lightly crispy on all sides. Remove the meat and place the pieces in an oven casserole. Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Add the onions, carrots, celery and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for 5-6 minutes or until lightly crispy. Add the ketchup and harissa paste and stir them into the vegetables. Pour in the stock and wine, Stir and bring the liquid to a boil. Turn off the heat and pour the vegetables and liquid over the meat. Cover the casserole. Place in the oven. Turn the heat to 275 degrees. Cook for 3-4 hours or until the meat is very tender. Serve the meat with the vegetables and sauce by itself or over noodles, etc.

Makes 4 servings

Chinese Chicken with Peanuts (Kung Pao Gai Ding)

It just so happens that Chinese new year and my husband’s birthday (February 12) fall on the same day this year. And that’s grand because there is nothing he would like better than to have Chinese food for his birthday dinner.

Kung Pao Gai Ding — Chicken with Peanuts — is one of his favorites, so that’s what he’ll be getting.

CHICKEN WITH PEANUTS

sauce:

• 1 tablespoon soy sauce

• 1 tablespoon rice wine

• 1/2 teaspoon white vinegar

• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

• 1 teaspoon sesame seed oil

• 2 teaspoons cornstarch

• 2 teaspoons water

the chicken:

• 4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves

• 1-1/2 teaspoons cornstarch

• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 4-6 dry red whole chili peppers

• 4 large scallions, chopped

• 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

• 1/2 cup roasted peanuts

Mix the soy sauce, rice wine, vinegar, kosher salt and sesame seed oil in a small bowl and set it aside. Mix the 2 teaspoons cornstarch and 2 teaspoons water in a small bowl and set it aside.

Cut the chicken into bite size pieces and place them in a bowl. Add the 1-1/2 teaspoons cornstarch and mix thoroughly to coat all the chicken pieces. Set aside.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a wok or stirfry pan over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and stirfry for 2-3 minutes or until all the pieces are white. Dish out the chicken and set the pieces aside. Heat the remaining tablespoon vegetable oil in the wok. Add the chili peppers, scallion, ginger and stirfry briefly. Add the chicken and stirfry for about a minute, distributing the ingredients evenly. Stir the sauce and pour it into the pan. Stirfry for about a minute. Add the peanuts and mix them in evenly. Stir the cornstarch mixture and pour it into the pan. Stirfry until the sauce has thickened. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings

Braised Flanken, Just Like Grandma Used to Make

We got over a foot of snow this week. That’s flanken weather. And I’m in the mood for plain old. No frills, no riffs.

This recipe is tried (many times) and true. No fuss, no bother. Good old fashioned eats. For cold weather. For comfort.

If you don’t have flanken, you can make the same recipe using “English cut” short ribs, large chunks of chuck or really any “stew” type beef.

Braised Flanken

• all-purpose flour

• salt, freshly ground black pepper, garlic salt and paprika

• 6 pieces flanken

• 4 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 2 medium onions, sliced

• 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

• 2 tablespoons tomato paste

• 4 large carrots, cut into chunks

• 2 large all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2 cups red wine

• 2-3 fresh thyme sprigs

Mix the flour with some salt, black pepper, garlic powder and paprika. Coat the meat with the flour mixture. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a saute pan over medium heat and cook on both sides for 5-6 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove the meat and set it aside on a plate. Pour the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil into the pan. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes, or until softened. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Mix the tomato paste into the ingredients. Return the meat to the pan. Add the carrots and potatoes. Pour in the wine. Place the thyme sprigs on top. Turn the heat to low. Cook for about 3 hours or until the meat is soft and tender.

Makes 4-6 servings

Azerbaijani Plov

A while ago my husband and I took the plunge and took the 23-and-me DNA tests.

One of the best things that happened is that I met a couple of wonderful new cousins I didn’t know I had! And I also was able to catch up on news with family we had lost contact with years and years ago.

I wasn’t surprised by anything in my ethnic background. I am an Ashkenazi Jew and that’s what it said.

Mostly.

There were a couple of odd little things. The one that intrigued me most was the tiny, tiny, tiny bit of “Azeri” — roughly meaning from Azerbaijan.

Wow. Where did that come from?

It doesn’t matter. I will never be able to trace anything to anyone. My “people” come from Romania and Ukraine.

I only actually wondered about one thing: what do they eat in Azerbaijan?

Alas, no relatives to tell me. So, I did some research and some cooking.

One of the best Azerbaijani dishes is something called Plov. It’s basically “pilaf” — the west Asian version. And, like pilaf (Caribbean Pelau, Carolina Bog, Kenyan Pilau, Turkish Pilav) it means: rice with stuff in it. Azerbaijani versions are generally sweeter than others. They usually include dates and dried apricots — so the dish is perfect for Tu B’shevat (the Jewish holiday with some really delicious food). They mostly contain meat, but can be vegetarian.

I experimented of course. The best version is the one below, which I made using veal, because that’s what I had, but I know it would be even better with lamb. Vegetarians — use vegetable stock and leave out the meat (you can add peas nearer the end of the cooking time if you wish).

I have no idea if this tastes like an authentic Azerbaijani dish. But it’s really good and, alas, I didn’t have an ancient family recipe to guide me.

Azerbaijani Plov

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
  1 pound lamb, veal or boneless chicken, cut into bite size pieces
  1 onion, chopped 
  1 clove garlic, chopped
  3 medium carrots, sliced 1/2-inch thick
  1/2 cup halved dates, preferably medjool 
  1/2 cup cut up dried apricots
  1/3 cup golden raisins 
  Salt 
  1 teaspoon ground cumin
  1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
  1/2 teaspoon saffron threads, optional
  Pinch or two of Aleppo pepper, cayenne or crushed red pepper
  1 cup white rice
  2 cups chicken, beef or vegetable stock 

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large heat-proof, oven-proof pan over medium heat. Add the meat and cook, turning the pieces, for 4-5 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove the meat and set aside. Pour the remaining olive oil into the pan. Add the onion and cook for 2-3 minutes. Add the garlic and carrots and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the dates, apricots and raisins. Sprinkle with salt, cumin,  coriander, saffron and Aleppo pepper, stir and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the rice and meat. Stir to distribute the ingredients evenly. Pour in the stock, bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover the pan and place in the oven. Bake for about 45 minutes. Let rest, covered, for 10 minutes.

Makes 4 servings

Blueberry Tart with Oat Crumb Crust

Summertime. And the blueberries are gorgeous.

Blueberry Tart with Oatmeal Crumb Crust

• 1 cup all-purpose flour

• 1 cup quick-cooking oats

• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• 1/2 cup brown sugar

• 1/2 cup butter (margarine, solid coconut oil), in chunks

• 2 boxes (4 cups) blueberries

• 3 tablespoons sugar

• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

• 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Combine the flour, oats, cinnamon, salt and brown sugar together in a bowl. Work in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Measure out 1 cup and set aside. Add the remaining mixture to a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom and press firmly onto the bottom and sides. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven. Mix the blueberries, sugar, lemon juice and flour and spoon into the tart pan. Sprinkle remaining oat mixture on top. Bake for about 45 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. Let cool.

Makes 8 servings

Lemon Oregano Roasted Chicken

I bought a ton of lemons recently for an article I wrote on Preserved Lemons for the Jewish Week Food&Wine.

So I’ve been cooking lots of recipes that use lemons.

This is one of the best, easiest and least complicated: Roasted Lemon-Oregano Chicken. I used chicken breast (though you could make it with any chicken parts). The fragrance is mesmerizing. It’s tasty without needing too many ingredients. You don’t need to use salt because the lemon juice adds the right amount of tang. It’s filling but not heavy.

I serve this with plain cooked rice or mashed or baked potatoes because the roasting juices are a perfect “gravy,” no other moisturizing fat needed.

Roasted Lemon-Oregano Chicken

• 1 large onion, sliced

• 1 lemon, sliced

• 2 whole bone-in chicken breasts, each about 1-1/2 pounds (or 4 whole chicken legs)

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 teaspoon dried oregano

• freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 6 tablespoons lemon juice

• 1/4 cup white wine

• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Place the onion and lemon slices in a roasting pan. Wash and dry the chicken breasts and place them on top of the onion/lemon slices. Brush the chicken with 1 tablespoon olive oil and sprinkle with the oregano and pepper to taste. Roast for 10 minutes. Combine the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, the lemon juice, white wine and garlic and pour over the chicken. Lower the oven heat to 350 degrees. Roast for another 25-30 minutes, basting occasionally, or until cooked through (a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast will register 160 degrees). Let rest for 15 minutes before carving.

 Makes 4-6 servings

Vegetarian Moussaka

Way back in 2009 I wrote an article about wedding feasts for Connecticut Bride Magazine, interviewed several caterers, and was astonished that among the menus they showed me there were so many choices for vegetarians and vegans. I read about creative, gorgeous hors d’oeuvres. Substantial, festive main courses. Glamorous desserts.

I’m not a vegetarian but that assignment was a sort of turnaround for me. I realized that there were lots of delicious foods I hadn’t tried and, that even if I had no intention of becoming a vegetarian or vegan, and even if I wasn’t particularly trying to cut down on meat protein, I was missing some really good food!

I don’t like to miss good food!

So, over the years I have prepared many vegetarian hors d’oeuvre and entrees, many of them spectacular.

This Vegetarian Moussaka is one of them. Portobello mushrooms take the place of meat in this creamy, tangy, comforting dinner dish. A hearty, filling meal, perfect for meatless Monday or any other day. Celebratory enough for a special occasion, wedding or otherwise.

Vegetarian Moussaka

• 2 medium eggplants, sliced into 1/2-inch thick rounds

• salt

• 2/3 cup olive oil, approximately

• 1 large onion, chopped

• 2 medium chopped carrots

• 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

• 3 Portobello mushrooms, chopped

• 1 bunch fresh spinach (or 2 packed cups baby spinach leaves)

• 1 28-ounce can plum tomatoes, undrained

• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 1 teaspoon dried oregano

• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 3 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled

• 6 tablespoons butter

• 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour

• 2-1/2 cups milk

• 2 large egg yolks

• 1 cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the eggplant slices on a surface and salt them lightly. Let sit for about 15 minutes, then wipe the surface dry with paper towels. Brush the slices with about 4-5 tablespoons of the olive oil and place them in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes, turn the slices and bake for another 12-15 minutes, or until the slices are tender. Let the slices cool. Reduce the oven heat to 350 degrees.

Heat 6 tablespoons olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and carrots and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4-5 minutes or until the onions have softened. Add the garlic and mushrooms and continue to cook for another 3-4 minutes. Add the spinach and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, parsley, oregano, cumin and cinnamon. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook for about 15 minutes or until the sauce is very thick.

Cook the potatoes in a large pot of lightly salted water for about 15 minutes, or until tender. Let the potatoes cool, then peel and slice them into 1/4-inch rounds and set aside.

Make a béchamel white sauce: heat the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, lower the heat, add the flour and whisk the ingredients for 2-3 minutes. Gradually add the milk and whisk the ingredients for 2-3 minutes or until a thick sauce has formed. Stir about a half cup of the hot sauce into the egg yolks, stir to blend the ingredients and add the mixture back into the saucepan. Stir in 3/4 cup of the cheese, whisk the ingredients until smooth and set aside.

Lightly grease a 9”x13” ovenproof casserole. Layer: half the eggplant on the bottom, then the potatoes, then the vegetable sauce, then the remaining eggplant. Cover with the béchamel sauce. Sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 cup cheese.

Bake for about 45 minutes or until top is bubbly and golden brown.

Makes 8 servings

Spinach and Tomato Egg Scramble

After the eating fest that takes place over Rosh Hashanah/Break-the-Fast through Sukkot and before the onslaught of a zillion-calorie Thanksgiving dinner plus leftovers, I need a break from heavy meals. Meaning, something other than a meat-and-potatoes type dinner.

For example? This omelet-y dish, only it’s scrambled eggs, which means it’s even easier to cook because you don’t even have to fold it. It’s filling enough for dinner if you include a hunk of crusty bread or challah. It’s versatile too: you can add diced cooked potatoes and use any green vegetable instead of spinach; substitute onions or shallots for the scallions; add some crumbled goat cheese or shredded hard cheese such as Swiss or Mozzarella.

But we like it as is. Simple. Tasty. Easy to make. Easy going down. Just right for between holiday feasts.

Spinach and Tomato Egg Scramble

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil (butter if you prefer; let it melt before adding ingredients)

• 4 thick scallions, chopped

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chili pepper

• 2 cloves garlic, chopped

• 1 large bunch spinach

• 4 medium tomatoes, cut into quarters

• 8 large eggs, beaten

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat the vegetable oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the scallions, chili pepper, garlic and spinach and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for another minute. Pour in the eggs, let the eggs set partially, then mix gently to scramble the ingredients together and cook to desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

 Makes 4 servings