Shakshuka

Lately, Ed and I have not been in the mood for a meat meal, so I make pasta or pizza or a big salad and such. These days it’s really easy (also delicious) to put together a tasty vegetarian dinner. One of our favorites is Shakshuka - originally a North African dish but popular everywhere now. I season it differently from time to time (there’s a good recipe for Indian style Shakshuka right here on my website). But this one is my old standby. It’s seasoned with basil, which I realize is not traditional in North Africa or anywhere in the Middle East. But we like it this way. We also prefer a thick, chunky tomato base rather than a more sauce-like version that’s typical of restaurant Shakshuka that we’ve tried. Here it is; it’s a nice dinner but also a feast of a weekend breakfast.

SHAKSHUKA

• 1/4 cup olive oil

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 1 red bell pepper, deseeded and chopped

• 2 small habanero or other chili peppers, deseeded and finely chopped

• 1 large clove garlic, finely chopped

• 6-8 plum tomatoes, chopped

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

• 8 large eggs

• 3/4 teaspoon zatar

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, and habanero peppers. Cook for 4–5 minutes or until softened slightly. Add the garlic and cook briefly. Add the tomatoes, basil and lemon juice, stir, cover the pan, turn the heat to low and cook for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until vegetables are very soft. Crack the eggs into a small bowl one at a time then transfer each one next to the other over the vegetables. Cover the pan and cook for 4–5 minutes or until the eggs are set but yolks are still slightly runny. Sprinkle with zatar. Serve each person 2 eggs and some of the vegetables.

Makes 4 servings

Veggie Frittata

When it’s time for a meatless meal I often go for a frittata. It’s quick and easy to cook and, accompanied by a salad and a hunk of bread, is filling enough for dinner.

I’ve made this veggie-cheese frittata many times, using different veggies (about 2 cups worth) and other meltable cheeses (cheddar, havarti, mozzarella) and if I have any, sometimes throw in some crumbled feta, blue or goat cheese.

This is a dish that works no matter what the season, but is especially good in summer when most of us want lighter food. Also — perfect during the Nine Days and for other meatless fast days.

Veggie Frittata

• 1 tablespoon butter

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 2 tablespoons chopped shallot

• 10-12 grape or cherry tomatoes, cut into pieces

• 3-4 large mushrooms, cleaned and chopped

• 1/2 cup chopped fresh spinach

• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, optional

• 6 large eggs, beaten

• 2 ounces grated Swiss cheese

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to broil. Heat the butter and olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the shallot, tomatoes and mushrooms and cook for 3-4 minutes or until the vegetables have softened. Add the spinach and parsley, if used, and cook briefly, until the spinach has wilted slightly. Pour in the eggs and scatter the cheese on top. Sprinkle with salt and pepper if desired. Cook for about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally to allow the liquid egg to get to the bottom, until the eggs are still slightly liquid but nearly cooked. Place the pan under the broiler for 1-2 minutes or until the top is crispy and lightly browned.

Makes 2-3 servings

India-style Shakshuka

We always have sleepover guests — my cousins — for New Year’s Eve. The next morning it’s always the same brunch: smoked fish, herrings, whitefish salad, bagels and coffee.

Perfect.

Except this year, for a variety of reasons, we have to consider less-salty meals.

I decided on a complete change. Something delicious, different and needs no extra salt because the seasonings are so bountiful and flavorful (the recipe says salt to taste, which can be zero).

I’ve made this for dinner and brunch. Works either way. Add a hunk of bread (naan if possible).

May become a new tradition.

Happy New Year 2020.

India-style Shakshuka

• 1/4 cup olive oil

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 1 red bell pepper, deseeded and chopped

• 1 small habanero, serrano or other chili pepper, deseeded and chopped

• 1 large garlic clove, chopped

• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger

• 8 plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped

• 2 teaspoons curry powder

• Salt to taste

• 4-6 large eggs

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper and habanero peppers. Cook for 3-4 minutes or until softened slightly. Add the garlic and ginger and cook briefly. Add the tomatoes, curry powder and salt to taste. Stir, cover the pan, turn the heat to low and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until vegetables are very soft and sauce-like. Crack the eggs into a small bowl one at a time then transfer each one next to the other over the vegetables. Cover the pan and cook for 4–5 minutes or until the eggs are set but yolks are still slightly runny. Sprinkle with mint and parsley. Serve each person an egg with some of the vegetables.

Makes 4-6 servings.

Spinach and Tomato Egg Scramble

After the eating fest that takes place over Rosh Hashanah/Break-the-Fast through Sukkot and before the onslaught of a zillion-calorie Thanksgiving dinner plus leftovers, I need a break from heavy meals. Meaning, something other than a meat-and-potatoes type dinner.

For example? This omelet-y dish, only it’s scrambled eggs, which means it’s even easier to cook because you don’t even have to fold it. It’s filling enough for dinner if you include a hunk of crusty bread or challah. It’s versatile too: you can add diced cooked potatoes and use any green vegetable instead of spinach; substitute onions or shallots for the scallions; add some crumbled goat cheese or shredded hard cheese such as Swiss or Mozzarella.

But we like it as is. Simple. Tasty. Easy to make. Easy going down. Just right for between holiday feasts.

Spinach and Tomato Egg Scramble

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil (butter if you prefer; let it melt before adding ingredients)

• 4 thick scallions, chopped

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chili pepper

• 2 cloves garlic, chopped

• 1 large bunch spinach

• 4 medium tomatoes, cut into quarters

• 8 large eggs, beaten

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat the vegetable oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the scallions, chili pepper, garlic and spinach and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for another minute. Pour in the eggs, let the eggs set partially, then mix gently to scramble the ingredients together and cook to desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

 Makes 4 servings

New Year's Shakshuka

I'm finding it a bit weird to be thinking about New Year's, even though we are well into December, because the weather where I live is balmy. For Connecticut in December that is. It feels more like October.

It is December though and New Year's is coming and Ed and I always spend New Year's Eve with my brother and sister-in-law, Jeff and Eileen, and also cousins Leslie and Neil. Then Les and Neil stay for a few days and we just hang out, watch movies and eat. And drink.

Most of the time we have smoked fish for breakfast 3-4 days in a row but for several reasons we are changing course this year. One day of lox-and-bagels will do.

So then what?

I'm planning to serve shakshuka one morning. I have several versions, some with cheese, some with mergeuz sausage, some all-vegetarian. Some with middle eastern seasonings, some with Mediterranean herbs such as basil or oregano. A quickie or two.

This is the one I'm thinking of for this year, a substantial dish that reminds me of Huevos Rancheros. The pita bread sops up the juices from the vegetables. Also, the eggs aren't poached, but baked under a layer of grated cheese. I can set this up ahead and just pop it into the oven before we are ready to eat.

Huevos Rancheros Shakshuka

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1 large garlic clove, finely chopped
• 1 red bell pepper, deseeded and chopped
• 1 medium serrano pepper, deseeded and chopped
• 4 medium tomatoes, coarsely chopped
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 2 pita breads
• 8 large eggs
• 1 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, bell pepper and serrano pepper and cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the vegetables have softened.

Add the tomatoes, cilantro, cumin, salt and pepper. Turn the heat to low, cover the pan and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 8-10 minutes or until the ingredients are soft and sauce-like.

While the sauce is cooking, spread the butter over one side of the pitas and place the pitas in a large baking pan. When the sauce is done, spoon it over the bread.

Crack the eggs into a small bowl one at a time then transfer each one next to the other on top of the vegetables. Sprinkle the cheese on top. Place the baking pan in the oven and cook for 15-18 minutes or until the eggs are cooked but with slightly runny yolks and the cheese is hot and bubbly.

For a crispier looking top, place the pan under the broiler for a minute or so.

Makes 4 servings.

Mock Shak

It isn't Shakshuka. But this dish is a quick, incredibly satisfying substitute.

Or maybe just it's own thing.

It came about this way: I had some roasted tomatoes left over and wanted to use them in some other way than the leftover reheat.

But I didn't feel like cooking anything extravagant. So I made the leftover reheat.

But then I topped it with sunnyside egg/runny yolks, which I think can make just about any vegetable dish worthier.

This quick Mock Shak is a good bet for lunch, brunch and even dinner when you don't feel like fussing or spending too much time making a meal.

Obviously you can make the tomatoes a day or two ahead and reheat.

Glorious isn't it?

Mock Shak

• 12 plum tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
• 1-2 tablespoon butter or olive oil
• 4-8 large eggs
• grated Parmesan cheese, optional
•  

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise and place them cut side up in a baking dish large enough to hold them in a single layer. Brush the tops with olive oil and scatter the garlic on top. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, basil and parsley. Bake for about 20 minutes or until the tomatoes are soft. Place 6 halves on each of four plates.

When the tomatoes are almost finished roasting, heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat (or use two pans if making 8 eggs). When the butter has melted and looks foamy, crack 4 eggs into the pan (or 4 eggs into each of the two pans) and cook them, sunnyside-up style until cooked to the desired doneness. Place one or two eggs one each dish over the roasted tomatoes. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, if desired.

Makes 4 servings

Eggs: Size Matters; Classic Genoise

Before I buy eggs, I open the carton to see if any are broken or otherwise unacceptable (an occasional egg will not look clean, for example). If the eggs are okay, I close the box and take it.

I almost always buy large eggs because they are the most useful. I’m sure you already know this, but just in case you don’t, recipes that have been developed by food writers, chefs and so on, assume you will be using large size eggs, especially for baked goods and custards. It should be noted in the list of ingredients, but if not, large eggs are what they mean.

Why is this important? Because if a recipe has been developed using size large and you use a different size, the texture and flavor of the cake (cookies, quickbread, etc.) or custard you are making will be affected and sometimes the recipe may fail completely. 

Of course you can substitute — if a recipe calls for 4 large eggs, you can use 3 jumbo or 5 medium — but most home cooks don’t and may wonder why a recipe didn’t work.

Egg size must meet USDA standards and is measured by weight per dozen, not actual dimensions. Large eggs are 24 ounces per dozen.

That could mean the eggs in a carton all look about the same size. OR, they could look like the two eggs in the photo. One looks much larger than the other.

I would not normally have bought the particular carton with these eggs because of this differential, but I wanted to take a photo just so I could write this post. Besides, egg size does not matter when it comes to scrambled eggs or French toast or egg salad, so I can use these for that kind of dish.

But size does matter for recipes such as genoise, the delicate, classic sponge cake used in so many European style cakes and confections. Genoise has no leavening other than the eggs. They must be the right ones, the right size.

Genoise is a building block kind of recipe. For an easy summer dessert, slice it in half and stuff the middle with whipped cream and fresh berries. You can frost it if you like. Or make it into Baked Alaska. And dozens of other recipes (I’ll be posting throughout the next few months).

But to begin, here’s Classic Genoise using LARGE eggs

Classic Genoise

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup cake flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

6 large eggs at room temperature

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-inch or 10-inch cake pan, place a parchment paper circle on the bottom and lightly grease the paper. Melt the butter and set it aside to cool. Sift the flour and salt together three times. Set aside. Crack the eggs into the mixing bowl of an electric mixer (or a large bowl to use with a hand mixer). Beat the eggs until thoroughly combined. Add the sugar and vanilla extract to the eggs. Beat at medium speed for 8-10 minutes or until the mixture is very thick and pale-cream color and falls ribbon-like back into the bowl when the beater is lifted. Gently fold 1/4 of the flour into the egg mixture with a large rubber spatula, folding just until the flour has been incorporated. Repeat with the remaining flour three more times, adding the melted butter with the last addition. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan. Bake for about 25 minutes or until the sides of the cake have begun to separate from the edges of the pan and a cake tester inserted into the middle comes out clean. Let cool in the pan for 5-10 minutes, then invert it on to a cake rack to cool completely.

Makes one cake

Frittata with Onions, Potatoes, Spinach and Cheese

Eggs are underrated as a dinner item. You really can’t get a better bargain in terms of nutritional value. They’re also easy to make. Most people always have some in the fridge. They’re filling. They’re tasty. They’re versatile — not only can you make them several different ways all by themselves, but you can add a lot of stuff to them for omelets, frittatas and fancy things like Eggs Benedict.

Eggs are also a good go-to food if you are going to be fasting or going on a diet. Because they satisfy but don’t make you feel overstuffed and thinking about your stomach.

Ed and I have eggs occasionally for dinner. Recently I had a leftover baked potato and some spinach that was just about to wilt in the refrigerator, so I used them to make a frittata. I toasted some bread to go with it. I served some mango juice. In less than 30 minutes dinner was ready.

Frittata with Onions, Potatoes, Spinach and Cheese

1 medium baking potato

5 large eggs

3 tablespoons milk, cream or dairy sour cream

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1-1/2 tablespoons butter

1 medium onion, chopped

1/2 cup chopped fresh spinach

1/2 cup grated cheese such as Swiss, Cheddar, Mozzarella, Parmesan or a combination

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Bake the potato for about one hour or until tender. Remove the inside flesh to a bowl, crumble it slightly with a fork and set it aside to let cool slightly (or let the potato cool, peel and dice the insides). Lower the oven heat to 375 degrees. Beat the eggs and milk together, stir in the parsley and sprinkle in some salt and pepper. Set aside. Heat the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the onion and cook for 2 minutes or until it has softened. Add the potato and cook for about 5 minutes or until they are lightly crispy, stirring occasionally. Add the spinach and cook for another minute, stirring occasionally. Pour in the eggs and turn the heat to low. Scatter the cheese on top. Stir once or twice, then cook undisturbed for 8-10 minutes, or until the bottom has set. Place the pan in the oven and bake for 8-10 minutes, until the eggs are set.

Makes 2-3 servings

Shakshuka

I like breakfast but don’t usually get the opportunity to eat the kind I would like (unless I am on vacation). I mean not only delicious food that takes more than 40 seconds to put together but also more time to sit and enjoy the meal, the surroundings and hopefully good company. Or maybe read a newspaper, enjoy the scenery.

Stuff like that.

So what I do is make breakfast for dinner, when there’s more time to relax and actually enjoy what I’m eating. When I can sit down at the table and use real dishes, not stand at the sink scooping yogurt from a plastic container.

And when I say breakfast for dinner I don’t mean cheerios and milk or a doughnut and coffee or frozen waffles.

I mean something like shakshuka. Peppers and eggs. An Israeli specialty made with sauteed tomatoes, onions and lots of red hot chili pepper. After this “salsa” cooks and softens you break eggs on top, cover the pan a little longer until the eggs are steamed done. I like this dish sprinkled with salt and zatar (a Middle Eastern spice blend). I love when the egg yolks are still runny and the rich, dark yellow liquid oozes into those hot vegetables.

Perfection. Rich and hot. Feisty. Filling.

Perfection. For breakfast, lunch, brunch or dinner.

Shakshuka

1/4 cup olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1 red bell pepper, deseeded and chopped

2 small habanero or other chili peppers, deseeded and minced

1 large garlic clove, minced

6–8 plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon minced fresh basil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

8 large eggs

3/4 teaspoon zatar

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, and habanero peppers. Cook for 4–5 minutes or until softened slightly. Add the garlic and cook briefly. Add the tomatoes, basil, and lemon juice, stir, cover the pan, turn the heat to low and cook for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until vegetables are very soft and saucelike. Crack the eggs into a small bowl one at a time then transfer each one next to the other over the vegetables. Cover the pan and cook for 4–5 minutes or until the eggs are set but yolks are still slightly runny. Sprinkle with zatar. Serve each person 2 eggs and some of the vegetables.

Makes 4 servings.

Egg Salad — My Go-To Staple

Egg Salad — My Go-To Staple

The kids are coming for the holiday weekend, so I’ve just made some egg salad. There’s always egg salad in my fridge. It’s like having salt and pepper in the cabinet, a no-brainer nibble. I make egg salad because everyone eats it. On a sandwich or crackers or cucumber slices or just plain on the plate. For lunch or as a snack or even for breakfast. 

Egg salad is my all-purpose go-to dish.

My son-in-law Jesse teases me about it. He rolls his eyes when he sees the fresh batch in the fridge. But then he takes it out and has some. If there weren’t any egg salad there he’d be upset that something was wrong.

I’ve tasted all sorts of egg salad over the years. My mother made it with onion and sometimes cooked potato. That was delicious. I’ve tasted egg salad with fresh dill. That’s good too. And there have been tastes of egg salad with olive, tuna, salmon, cooked peas and carrots and so on.

All good. But not plain old egg salad. I am an egg salad purist. I like it plain and always make it the same way. People say they like it because it’s dry, not overly loaded with mayonnaise — I use a microplane to crush the hard cooked eggs (you use less mayo that way). The only thing I change is the dish I serve it in. 

Everyone loves my egg salad, which is basically this: 

Egg Salad

• 8 hard cooked eggs
• 2-1/2 to 3 tablespoons mayonnaise
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1-2 teaspoons Dijon mustard if you must

Crush the eggs using the finest grater possible (microplane is best) into a bowl. Add 2-1/2 tablespoons mayonnaise, season with salt, pepper (and mustard if you like it) and mix with a fork. Add slightly more mayonnaise if the egg crumbles don’t hold together.

Makes 4 servings