summer food

Roasted Fish with Tomatoes, Olives and Basil

“I loves you Porgy……” a lovely aria from Gershwin’s opera, Porgy and Bess of course.

But mostly I love porgy, the fish species, which should be coming to market soon, where I live.

Actually I love all fish. My husband — not so much. My cousin who is coming to stay with us over Memorial Day weekend - she loves fish too. Her husband — not so much.

But both men do like fish that’s covered and baked with lots of flavorful ingredients such as olives, tomatoes, onions and fresh herbs.

So this dish is on the menu. I’ll probably be making it with branzino, which is widely available, but it’s a perfect way to prepare lots of different kinds of fish (see the recipe).

Roasted Fish with Tomatoes, Olives and basil

  • 4 fish filets such as porgy, branzino, hake, grouper, halibut, cod or sea bass about 5-6 ounces each, or 24 ounce large filet

  • 1-1/2 tablespoons olive oil

  • salt to taste

  • Aleppo pepper (or use cayenne or crushed red pepper) or freshly ground black pepper

  • 3 large plum tomatoes, chopped

  • 1/3 cup chopped red onion

  • 1/2 cup mixed pitted olives

  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice

  • 2 teaspoons grated fresh lemon peel

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the fish in a baking pan. Coat the surface with the olive oil and sprinkle with salt and (Aleppo) pepper. Scatter the tomatoes, onion, olives and basil over the fish. Sprinkle with lemon juice and lemon peel. Bake for 12-18 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish, or until the fish is cooked through.

Makes 4 servings

Roasted Potato Salad with Red Onions and Rosemary

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If you’re getting out the grill to celebrate Lag BaOmer or because the warm weather is finally here or just because grilled food is so so good — have you decided about a side dish to go with those chicken legs or salmon steaks or hot dogs.

How about potato salad?

I make all sorts of potato salad, but because roasted potatoes are a classic food for Lag BaOmer, I went the extra step and roasted the potatoes for this version. The crispy edge added a really satisfying texture and the flavor was extra rich because the high heat caramelized the onions. I used a cast iron pan and suggest that for best results. Your oven is fine (instructions below) but if you have room for the pan on the grill — go for it and cook the entire feast outdoors.

This dish tastes best at room temperature, although my husband likes it hot, so, either way.

Roasted Potato Salad with Red Onions and Rosemary

  • 2 pounds “new” waxy potatoes (such as Red Bliss or baby Yukon Golds)

  • 1 small red onion, sliced

  • 5 tablespoons olive oil

  • 3 tablespoons lemon juice

  • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

  • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

  • 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

  • salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. If you have a cast iron grill pan or frying pan, preheat it in the oven. Wash the potatoes and cook them in simmering water for 12-15 minutes or until tender. Peel the potatoes when they are cool enough to handle; cut them into bite size pieces and place them in a bowl with the onion slices. Pour 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over the vegetables, toss them to coat all sides and place them in the preheated pan (or use an ovenproof pan or baking sheet). Roast for 25-30 minutes, mixing 2-3 times, or until lightly browned and crispy. While the potatoes are cooking, mix the remaining olive oil, lemon juice and Dijon mustard in a large bowl. Add the roasted potatoes and onions when they are done. Add the parsley and rosemary. Toss the ingredients. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let rest for at least 15 minutes before serving. Serve still warm or at room temperature.

Makes 4-6 servings

 

Blueberry Granola Crisp

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In my neck of the woods the blueberries are fabulous.

Just in time for a dessert trying out a new riff on my usual granola crust.

It went well…..

Blueberry Granola Crisp

Crust:

  • 1 cup granola

  • 1/3 cup all-purpose flour

  • 1/3 cup raisins, optional

  • 3 tablespoons brown sugar

  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

  • 1/4 teaspoon salt

  • 5 tablespoons butter or margarine, cut into chunks

Place the granola, flour, raisins, brown sugar, cinnamon and salt in a food processor and pulse the ingredients 2-3 times to distribute them evenly. Add the butter and pulse several times until the butter pieces become tiny and distributed evenly within the dry ingredients. Set aside.

Filling:

  • 4 cups blueberries

  • 3 tablespoons sugar

  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice

  • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the ingredients in a baking dish, toss to distribute the ingredients evenly. Cover the fruit with the granola mixture. Bake for about 30-35 minutes or until the crust is brown and crunchy.

Makes 4-6 servings

Tomato-free Zucchini Parmesan Strips

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My garden didn’t do so well this year.

:(

I got two measly zucchinis from three plants!

This is what I did with them: Zucchini Parmesan Strips.

I didn’t include the traditional tomatoes or tomato sauce because I didn’t get so many tomatoes either and besides, I served these when my brother came over for dinner and he doesn’t like tomatoes.

The dish was really good so I bought zucchini and made the dish again a couple of times.

Tomato-free Zucchini Parmesan Strips

  • 2 medium zucchini

  • salt

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil

  • 6 tablespoons ground Parmesan cheese

  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh oregano

  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley

  • 1 clove garlic, finely chopped

  • freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Wash and dry the zucchini, trim the ends and slice each zucchini lengthwise into three or four pieces, depending on width. Lightly salt each slice and let rest for about 15 minutes. Wipe the slices dry with paper towels. Place the slices on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush the tops of each slice with olive oil. Combine the Parmesan cheese, oregano, parsley and garlic and scatter this mixture evenly over the slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper if desired. Bake for about 15 minutes or until lightly crispy.

Makes 6-8 slices

Garden Fresh Salsa (Pico de Gallo)

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Last year my garden was like a jungle, loaded with tomatoes, zucchinis, eggplants, peppers and other stuff.

This year —-meh. Tomatoes not so plentiful (but delicious), I got two measly zucchinis, didn’t grow eggplants. The collard leaves were eaten up by roving outsiders. We managed one good bunch of kale.

The chili peppers though! They gave their all. We have plenty of them, all perfect.

So I decided to make homemade salsa.

I used peppers, tomatoes and scallions, all from my garden. I didn’t have cilantro, so I used the small green leaves from what I thought was a parsley plant but it turned out to be celery.

The avocado — store bought, and I know it isn’t a usual addition to Pico de Gallo, but I added some anyway and it gave a lovely, mellowing flavor and creamy texture.

Garden Fresh Salsa

  • 4 medium tomatoes, chopped

  • 2-3 scallions, chopped

  • 2 small chili peppers, deseeded and chopped

  • 1 small (or 1/2 large) avocado, chopped*

  • 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, parsley or celery leaves

  • 1 large clove garlic, finely chopped

  • 2 teaspoons olive oil

  • 2 tablespoons lime juice

  • salt to taste

Place the tomatoes, scallions, chili peppers, avocado, cilantro and garlic in a bowl. Pour the olive oil over the vegetables and toss the ingredients to distribute them evenly. Add the lime join, toss again and let rest for at least one hour. Taste for seasoning and add salt as needed.

*You can make this a day ahead. If so, add the avocado an hour before serving rather than at the same time as the other ingredients.

Potlagela

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I know I am not alone in in thinking I want “my old life back” —— seeing my kids and grandkids, giving them a hug. Seeing family and friends without having to sit at least six feet away, always outside. Going out for dinner. Going to the opera.

All that.

I’ve managed to find ways that help me through this stressful time. One of them is making foods that remind me of “the good old days.”

So I’ve baked some Apple Brown Bettys, because they remind me of my parents (z”l), who once lived nearby. It was my Dad’s favorite dessert, my Mom made it often and there was always some left for me when I’d visit, at least twice a week. (Apple Brown Betty is also good for socially distanced company because you can bake the ingredients in individual ramekins.)

Almond Crusted Chicken Nuggets have been on my menu recently because they remind me of my very special cousin and lifelong friend, Leslie. She and her husband Neil spend every New Year’s weekend with us and I always serve these for hors d’oeuvre. (Another winner for social distancing!)

There’s always a reason to make my grandma’s award-winning challah, so that’s nothing new in my house.

BUT, my other grandma used to make potlagela, a Romanian specialty. I hated this dish when I was a youngster but last year, when I grew my own eggplants, I decided to give her recipe a try and realized how delicious this dish is. That revelation also brought back some terrific memories.

SO, here it is. My Grandma Hoffman’s version of Potlagela. She used vegetable oil, but I prefer olive oil. Either will work. She also cooked her eggplant right on top of the cooktop burner, so if you have a gas burner, you can do it that way too. OR, you can cook it on an outdoor grill, which I’ve done many times.

This dip is so perfect for summer. Especially perfect for eating outdoors socially distanced because you can serve it in separate bowls for other people.

Serve with pita or bagel chips.

Potlagela

  • 1 large eggplant

  • 1-2 scallions or one shallot or small onion

  • 1 clove garlic, finely chopped

  • 1 tomato, chopped, optional

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice

  • salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  • parsley

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Wash the surface of the eggplant, then wipe it dry. Coat the surface with a thin film of olive oil. Prick the skin in a few places with the tines of a fork. Place the eggplant on a baking sheet and roast for about 25 minutes, turning the eggplant once or twice during the cooking. Remove the eggplant from the oven. When the eggplant is cool enough to handle, remove the skin and stem and place the flesh in a bowl. Mash the eggplant with the back of a fork. Add the scallion, garlic, optional tomato and olive oil and mix the ingredients to distribute them evenly. Add the lemon juice and mix again. Season to taste with salt and pepper; sprinkle with some parsley.

Makes 4 servings

Blueberry Tart with Oat Crumb Crust

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Summertime. And the blueberries are gorgeous.

Blueberry Tart with Oatmeal Crumb Crust

  • 1 cup all-purpose flour

  • 1 cup quick-cooking oats

  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

  • 1/2 cup brown sugar

  • 1/2 cup butter (margarine, solid coconut oil), in chunks

  • 2 boxes (4 cups) blueberries

  • 3 tablespoons sugar

  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice

  • 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Combine the flour, oats, cinnamon, salt and brown sugar together in a bowl. Work in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Measure out 1 cup and set aside. Add the remaining mixture to a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom and press firmly onto the bottom and sides. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven. Mix the blueberries, sugar, lemon juice and flour and spoon into the tart pan. Sprinkle remaining oat mixture on top. Bake for about 45 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. Let cool.

Makes 8 servings

Three Cabbage Cole Slaw

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These days we entertain outside.

By entertain I mean (other than my kids and grandkids) one couple at a time, six feet (at least) away from us on our back terrace.

Fortunately the weather has been good and the outdoor insects have cooperated by being elsewhere.

We recently had our cousins over for a feast: smoked salmon and really fabulous Long Island bagels (they brought). They also donated homemade potato salad. I made beet salad and this coleslaw. I call it three-cabbage because it has green and red cabbage plus shredded Brussels sprouts which, after all, are baby cabbages.

I like coleslaw made with buttermilk — it has a tang that other dressings don’t quite measure up to — but if you don’t have any, you can substitute plain yogurt plus lemon juice.

This might be nice for Father’s Day or July 4th or even Labor Day.

THREE CABBAGE COLE SLAW

  • 3 cups shredded green cabbage

  • 3 cups shredded red cabbage

  • 2 cups shredded Brussels sprouts

  • 2 medium carrots, grated

  • 3 scallions, finely chopped

  • 1 cup buttermilk (or plain yogurt plus 2-3 teaspoons lemon juice)

  • 1/2 cup mayonnaise

  • 3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

  • 2 tablespoons honey

  • 1 teaspoon dry mustard

  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

  • salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the cabbage and Brussels sprouts shreds, carrots and scallions in a large bowl and toss to distribute the ingredients evenly. Whisk the buttermilk, mayonnaise, honey and mustard together and pour over the vegetables. Toss the ingredients, sprinkle with parsley, salt and pepper to taste. Let rest for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Makes 8-10 servings

Simmered Strawberry Fool

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This dessert may look very fancy and I placed it on a very fancy plate. 

BUT: other than serving fresh fruit as is, this is among the simplest, easiest desserts ever. And you can also serve it in a plain old dish, custard cup, individual ramekin. However you wish.

The point is, you can transform this into a festive Shavuot holiday dessert just by using a lovely serving piece. The prep is a cinch.

Most of the time a fruit fool is a simple blend of crushed fruit and whipped cream (sometimes with vanilla or another extract added). The extra step of cooking the fruit and adding Balsamic vinegar gives the dish a richer, deeper flavor. Well worth the few (less than 10) minutes of time it takes.

Strawberry Fool 

  • one pint strawberries

  • 1/2 cup sugar

  • 2 tablespoons Balsamic vinegar

  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

  • 1/2 teaspoon finely grated fresh orange peel

  • 1 cup heavy cream

  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

  • Extra berries, cookie, chocolate shavings, mint leaves, etc. for garnish


Clean the strawberries, remove the stems and chop the berries into small pieces. Place the berries and sugar in a saucepan and cook over medium-high heat for 5-6 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the Balsamic vinegar, cinnamon and orange peel and cook for another 2-3 minutes or until the liquid is dark and syrupy. Remove from the heat and let cool. Whip the cream with the vanilla extract until thick. Fold the strawberry mixture into the whipped cream until well blended. Spoon the mixture onto dessert dishes (over berries or cookies, if desired). Garnish with berries, chocolate shavings, etc. 

Makes 6 servings
 

Fried Green Cherry Tomatoes

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This year my tomato crop was such a bonanza that we ate tomato-something almost every day!

I am not complaining. Fresh garden tomatoes are among the treasures of the food world.

But it’s getting on in the season, the weather is turning, the Jewish holidays are around the corner and hundreds of those little things will never ripen from green to red in time.

I made some chutney of course.

I like fried green tomatoes in a sandwich but the cherry tomatoes are too small for slicing, coating and frying.

So I tried making them whole.

Yes!

Crunchy outside — and when you bite in, you get spurts of sweet-tart juicy tomato.

Terrific as an hors d’oeuvre. If you have extra, little, green tomatoes, try this:

Fried Green Cherry Tomatoes

  • 1/2 cup mayonnaise

  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

  • lemon juice

  • 18-24 small green cherry tomatoes

  • 1/4 cup all-purpose flour

  • 1 large egg

  • 1/4 teaspoon Sriracha or other hot sauce

  • 1/2 cup matzo meal or breadcrumbs

  • salt, freshly ground black pepper and garlic powder to taste

  • vegetable oil

Combine the mayonnaise, basil and a teaspoon or two of lemon juice in a small bowl. Taste and add more lemon juice if desired. Set aside. Wash and dry the tomatoes. Place the flour in a bowl, add the tomatoes and toss them around to coat them completely. Beat the egg and hot sauce together. Immerse the tomatoes into the egg and roll them around to coat each one completely. In a bowl, combine the matzo meal with salt, pepper and garlic powder to taste. Add the egg-coated tomatoes a few at a time and roll them around to coat them completely. Place the coated tomatoes on a cake rack or other surface for at least 20 minutes, to “air dry” slightly. Heat vegetable oil in a deep pan to a depth of about 2-inches. When the oil is hot enough to make a crumb sizzle quickly, add the tomatoes, a few at a time and cook them, turning them occasionally, for 4-5 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove the tomatoes and set the on paper towels to drain. When all the tomatoes are fried, serve them with the basil mayonnaise.

Makes 6-8 servings