A Sauce for the Season

Grilled Kebabs with Pebre Sauce

On Monday (May 27), we Americans will be celebrating Memorial Day, a federal holiday to honor those who died in military service of the country.

Memorial Day weekend is also the traditional time that ushers in “barbecue season.”

I mean, some of us barbecue all year but many of us (me!) don’t because it’s too cold before the end of May to venture outside to cook.

And so, to begin the season, I offer a recipe for Pebre Sauce. In case you haven’t heard of it, Pebre is similar to Chimichurri. It’s originally from Chile, but well known throughout South America. I included this recipe in my first kosher cookbook, Hip Kosher, and I’ve made this sauce every summer since that book was published in 2008.

Why?

Mostly because it’s so tasty. But also: you can use it for all sorts of grilled meat, poultry or chicken (in Hip Kosher I paired it with beef kebabs) and even for vegetables, grilled or otherwise. Or use it as a marinade. And you can mix in some mayonnaise or olive oil and vinegar to use as a salad dressing (particularly delicious for potato salad).

PEBRE SAUCE

• 1 cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

• 1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves

• 2 large garlic cloves, quartered

• 1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• 1 small habanero or serrano pepper, deseeded and chopped

• 1/2 cup olive oil

Process the parsley, cilantro, garlic, oregano, lemon juice and pepper in a food processor until they are finely chopped. With the machine still on, gradually pour in the olive oil.

Makes about 1/2 cup

Brisket Wings

I don’t wait for Superbowl to serve chicken-wings. They’re one of our favorite foods to eat and are a regular item for dinner.

I make wings in all sorts of ways, with all sorts of seasonings and all levels of sweetness and spiciness. I’ve made them Korean style and Jewish style and East India style.

Recently I made some “brisket wings.”

What?

Here’s what I mean — I recently made brisket, which I slow-cook to tenderness and then light up our outside grill to cook it Texas-style. I use any one of a number of BBQ sauces I’ve developed over the years. BBQ sauce helps the meat come out with those fabulous crispy edges and burnt ends. (During colder months I use the oven broiler.)

I had some of the brisket sauce leftover so I decided to use it for some wings.

PERFECT!

This is a universal sauce! I have since even slathered some on top of some hamburgers, for extra burger goodness.

Here’s the recipe. I cooked the wings on a medium grill (lightly coat them with vegetable oil first), and then, after about 12-15 minutes, coat them with some sauce and cook them until crispy and done.

These wings would be terrific for Father’s Day!

BARBECUE SAUCE FOR BRISKET, WINGS AND MORE

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 medium onion, finely chopped

• 1 medium clove garlic, chopped

• 1 teaspoon finely chopped chili pepper

• 2 cups ketchup

• 1/2 cup orange marmalade

• 1/2 cup cold brewed coffee

• 1/4 cup honey

• 1/2 cup Balsamic vinegar

• 1/2 cup brown sugar

• pinch of ground cloves

Pour the olive oil into a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for about 2 minutes or until slightly softened. Add the garlic and chili pepper and cook briefly. Add the ketchup, marmalade, coffee, honey, Balsamic vinegar, brown sugar and cloves and stir to blend them. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce heat to simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring frequently, for 12-15 minutes or until thick.

Makes about 2-1/2 cups

Spaghetti with Fresh Puttanesca

We were on a cruise recently and the ship we were on had a separate pizza restaurant! So of course we had pizza a few times. The varieties were extensive — the chef made pizzas with all sorts of toppings. Mostly I like (and ate) plain pizza Margherita, sometimes topped with arugula, but one time I chose Puttanesca. It was an OMG moment.

Puttanesca is not for everyone. It’s salty and very tangy.

But I absolutely love it.

I’ve made Puttanesca sauce for spaghetti many times, usually with canned San Marzano tomatoes. But the plum tomatoes at the market recently were too good to pass up, so I went to my trusted recipe drawer, “sauce folder” and found my fresh tomato version. It was as good as I had remembered.

Here it is:

Spaghetti with Fresh Puttanesca Sauce

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 2 medium cloves garlic, chopped

• 3 anchovies, chopped (or 1 teaspoon anchovy paste)

• 4-5 large plum tomatoes

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

• pinch or two of crushed red pepper

• freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• 2-3 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

• 12-15 mixed pitted black and green imported olives, cut coarsely

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion and cook over medium heat for 3-4 minutes or until softened. Add the garlic and cook briefly. Add the anchovies (or paste), mix briefly, then add the tomatoes, basil and red pepper. Cook, over low-medium heat, stirring occasionally, for about 7-8 minutes. Stir in the capers and olives and cook for another 5-6 minutes or until it has reached the desired consistency (use 2 tablespoons of capers if you want it less tangy).

Makes enough for 1/2 pound pasta

Potato-Carrot-Curry Latkes

Potato latkes for Hanukkah? Of course!

But I make other kinds of latkes too.

This year it’s going to be these potato-carrot latkes. They have just enough curry powder to add an intriguing but not too spicy seasoning. I’ve made them several times already and they’ve been getting rave reviews. I’ll also serve some for my new year’s hors d’oeuvres fest.

The sauce is a bit tangy and very refreshing, sort of like tzadiki (cacik). It’s a soft, rich, smooth and tasty counterpoint for the crispy fried latkes.

Potato-Carrot-Curry Latkes with Yogurt Sauce

• 3 medium Russet type potatoes, peeled

• 4 medium carrots, peeled

• 1 large onion, cut into chunks

• 2 large eggs

• 1/4 cup potato starch, matzo meal or bread crumbs

• 1 teaspoon salt or to taste

• freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 2 teaspoons curry powder

• vegetable oil for frying

Yogurt Sauce

• 1 cup plain Greek yogurt

• 2-3 scallions, chopped

• 1/4 cup grated cucumber

• 2-3 teaspoons lemon juice

Shred the potatoes, carrots and onion in a food processor. Squeeze out as much of the liquid as possible (I put portions of the shreds in a kitchen towel and squeeze until they are practically dry). Place the shreds in a bowl. Immediately mix the eggs in (this helps keep the potatoes from browning). Add the potato starch, salt, pepper and curry powder. Heat about 1/4” vegetable oil in a heavy pan over medium-high heat. Shape latkes by hand, squeezing liquid out if there is any, and place them in the hot oil, leaving space between each one so that they brown well and become crispy (if they are too close they will “steam” and become soggy). Press down on the latkes to keep them evenly shaped. Fry for about 3 minutes per side or until the pancakes are golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels. Serve with the Yogurt Sauce.

To make the sauce, mix the yogurt, scallions, cucumber and lemon juice together until well mixed. Place in a serving bowl.

Makes 12-15

Passover Orange Cake with Roasted Oranges and Zabaglione

When I was growing up the standard Seder dessert was sponge cake. Everyone made fun of it and said it was true to its name and that frankly, biting into a sponge was not a good thing.

I actually never cared because as long as I got chocolate covered macaroons I was a happy girl.

By the time I began to host the Seders, flourless chocolate cakes had become fashionable and my aunt Rozzie's recipe for sponge cake was tucked away in a recipe file.

Now more time has gone by and my family got bored with flourless chocolate cake. So I spent years experimenting with flourless rolled cakes and cakes made with nut crumbs instead of wheat and going fancy with layers of jelly-roll pan cakes. Some of those were absolutely fabulous.

But a few years ago I decided to pull out the family recipe. That sponge cake isn't spongy at all. The trick is not to overbeat the egg whites, which are supposed to be thick and glossy with tips that fall over slightly (not so beaten that you can cut a chunk off). Also — fold in the beaten whites rather than mixing them in vigorously.

Although the cake is just fine, plain or served with sorbet, I have served it with a rich and creamy zabaglione sauce and some roasted oranges, which provide a tangy contrast to the sweet cake. They also make a plain sponge cake a bit more festive looking, so it’s a good bet for the holiday.

Bonus: you can make all parts in advance!

Passover Orange Cake with Roasted Oranges and Zabaglione

• 12 large eggs, separated, at room temperature

• 1-3/4 cups sugar

• 6 tablespoons orange juice

• 1/4 cup lemon juice

• 2 tablespoons finely grated orange peel

• 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon peel

• 1 cup matzo cake meal, sifted after measuring

• 1/3 cup potato starch

• Passover Zabaglione

• Roasted Orange Slices

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line the bottom of a large (10-1/2-inch - 11-inch springform pan with parchment paper and lightly grease the paper. Beat the egg yolks and 1-cup of the sugar in a mixer bowl at medium-high speed for 3-4 minutes or until the mixture is thick and pale yellow. Stir in the orange juice, lemon juice, orange peel and lemon peel, mix thoroughly and set aside. In another bowl, beat the egg whites at medium speed until they are foamy. Continue to beat, gradually increasing the speed and gradually adding the remaining 3/4 cup sugar. Beat until the whites are stiff but not dry, and look glossy. Stir about one-quarter of the beaten whites into the yolk mixture. Gently fold the remaining beaten whites into the yolk mixture, until the mixture is uniform in color. In a small bowl whisk the matzo cake meal and potato starch until they are thoroughly blended. Using about 1/4 of the matzo meal mixture at a time, fold the mixture into the egg mixture until the ingredients are thoroughly blended. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 55-60 minutes or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool the cake in the pan on a wire rack. When ready to serve, spoon some zabaglione onto serving dishes, place a slice of cake on top and surround with some roasted orange slices. (Or serve with sorbet, whipped cream, ice cream, etc. to suit your meal.)

Makes 12 servings

Passover Zabaglione

• 8 large egg yolks

• 3/4 cup sugar

• 2 tablespoons finely grated orange peel

• 1/2 cup sweet white Passover wine

• fresh mint as garnish

Place the egg yolks, 3/4 cup sugar and the orange peel in the top part of a double boiler set over barely simmering water. Beat the ingredients with a hand mixer at medium speed for about 3 minutes or until the mixture is thick and pale yellow. Continue to beat, gradually increasing the speed to high and gradually adding the wine. Beat for 8-10 minutes or until the mixture is thick and fluffy. You may use the zabaglione warm, immediately, or let it cool to room temperature.

Makes about 3 cups

Roasted Orange Slices

• 6 navel oranges

• 2 tablespoons melted coconut oil (or butter)

• 1 tablespoon sugar

• ground cinnamon (approximately 1/2 teaspoon)

• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Peel the oranges removing as much of the white pith as possible. Cut the oranges crosswise into 24 even slices (there should be 4 center slices from each orange; reserve the ends for other purposes). Place the slices on the baking sheet. Brush the tops with the coconut oil. Sprinkle with the sugar. Sprinkle lightly with cinnamon and the mint. Roast for about 4 minutes. Turn the slices over and roast for another 4-6 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove from the oven and set aside.

Makes 12 servings

Apple and Green Tomato Chutney

So, summer’s over and the nights are cooler and I harvested all the remaining fruits and vegetables left in the garden before they either would rot or become frosted over or eaten by hungry animals that roam around the backyard.

I actually had a lot of unripe produce this year. So I made some pepper jam using the recipe I posted a few weeks ago except this time I added a few cups of green mini tomatoes and some chopped up fresh ginger.

I also made chutney using the recipe below. I’ve made this recipe several times using different vinegars. This version includes coconut vinegar, but any old kind of fruit vinegar will do.

We like chutney as a side relish for grilled or roasted meat or poultry— keep this in mind for Thanksgiving. It’s also nice in small amounts as a topping for cheese and crackers.

Apple and Green Tomato Chutney 

• 6 apples, peeled, cored and chopped

• 2 pounds green tomatoes, chopped

• 2 medium onions, peeled and chopped

• 2 small chili peppers such as serrano, deseeded and chopped

• 1 large clove garlic, chopped

• 1 cup chopped dates (about 12 large)

• 1 cup golden raisins

• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger

• 2-1/2 cups apple cider vinegar or other fruit vinegar

• 2 cups brown sugar

• 1 tablespoon ras el hanout

• kosher salt

Place the apples, tomatoes, onions, chili peppers, garlic, dates, raisins, ginger, apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, ras el hanout and some kosher salt (about one teaspoon) in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for about 2-1/2 hours or until very thick.  

Makes about 6 cups

Korean Style Gochujang Chicken Wings

My husband doesn’t conform to the Hollywood version of the Father’s Day grill master. I do the cooking, including anything made on the outdoor BBQ grill.

He eats.

Fortunately, he eats whatever I serve and loves whatever I cook.

He does have favorites, of course: any kind of Chinese food is in first place. Followed by specialties of several other Asian cuisines such as Korean and Indian. He also loves Jewish deli and Texas Brisket.

So this weekend he’s getting these wings, Korean in origin, made with Gochujang sauce. If you keep a kosher kitchen, check out @koreankosher (Koko brand), which manufactures several kosher Korean ingredients, including a really delicious Gochujang sauce.

I usually bake these but they come out just fine on the grill also, so take your choice.

Korean Style gochujang chicken wings

• 3 pounds chicken wings

• 1/3 cup Gochujang sauce

• 2 tablespoons soy sauce

• 2 tablespoons honey

• 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

• 1 tablespoon sesame seed oil

• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger

• 2 large cloves garlic, chopped

• 1-2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 1 large scallion, chopped, for garnish

• white sesame seeds for garnish

Preheat an outdoor grill or oven broiler. Wash and dry the wings and separate the parts In a large bowl, combine the Gochujang, soy sauce, honey, rice vinegar, sesame seed oil, ginger and garlic and mix the ingredients to blend them thoroughly. Set aside. Pour the vegetable oil over the wing parts and toss to coat all the pieces. Grill the wings, turning once, for about 8 minutes, or until lightly browned. Brush the wings with some of the sauce, and cook for about 12-15 minutes, brushing with more of the sauce, until the wings are crispy and fully cooked. Sprinkle with the scallion and white sesame seeds.

If you don’t have a grill: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Eliminate the vegetable oil. Place the wings in a single layer on a foil-lined baking sheet. Pour the sauce over the chicken and toss to coat the pieces evenly. Bake for 12-15 minutes. Turn the wings over and bake for another 15 minutes or until the wings are crispy.

Makes 6-8 servings

Roasted Salmon with Orange-Mustard Butter

During the pandemic I used shopping/delivery services for my groceries. For the most part it’s been easy and reliable and I am incredibly grateful to the shoppers for risking their health and lives to help other people.

But recently, after two covid vaccinations and several weeks went by, I ventured out to the supermarket for my first “shop.” It was like an event. Who knew that grocery shopping could be such a thrill!

I went to a new store because my old reliable, Fairway, went out of business.

So, Wegman’s it was! It’s a huge place and kind of overwhelming after a year of not being or going anywhere.

There were products I hadn’t even thought to buy through a shopper — it seems stores don’t list everything that’s available for internet orders.

I bought lots of produce — oranges and berries and several kinds of lettuce and mushrooms and parsnips, fennel and more.

The FISH counter!! It was spectacular! I envisioned feasts! I LOVE fresh fish.

The salmon in particular was gorgeous and inviting. I know salmon is not such an exotic fish but it’s one that my husband eats without complaint, so I make it quite a lot. And I loved being able to pick out the exact pieces I wanted. From the front, at the big end, where it’s marbled with fat.

It was as delicious as it looked. Dinner was SO wonderful.

Things are looking up.

Roasted Salmon with Orange-Mustard Butter

• 6 salmon filets, about 6 ounces each

• 2 tablespoons softened butter

• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

• 2 scallions, chopped (or use chives)

• 2 teaspoons grated fresh orange peel

• 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Place the salmon filets in a baking dish. In a bowl, combine the butter, mustard, scallions, orange peel, ginger and parsley and mix to blend the ingredients thoroughly. Slather equal amounts of the butter over the fish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast the salmon for 15-18 minutes, depending on thickness and degree of doneness desired.

Makes 6 servings

Tomato Eggplant Mushroom Sauce

This recipe was born of my desire to use whatever is left in my pantry and fridge, my need to not waste food, my love of inventing new recipes.

During this awful pandemic, I have not shopped. I use a shopping service, so I am more mindful when I order because I can’t just hop in the car and go to the store for a tomato.

A few months ago I was at the tail end of what was left of an order, the list I keep almost ready for the next shop. I had some tomatoes and mushrooms, a few scallions and some pasta. I always have Parmesan cheese in the fridge. I chopped the vegetables (including a clove of garlic), added some fresh oregano (it was still summer so I had some fresh from the garden) and stewed the sauce until everything was soft and fragrant. We had it for dinner over spaghetti and Ed declared it a miracle.

I have made a variation of this dish several times since then. Once, I had an eggplant, so I added that. Another time I threw in some chopped zucchini. I sometimes replaced the scallion with onion. And of course, with no fresh herbs from the garden (and none left in the fridge) I have seasoned the sauce with dried oregano.

That’s how versatile this recipe is. It’s so easy. We load it with freshly grated Parmesan, but it’s also delicious without the cheese, served as a kind of saucy side dish for beef — steak, meatballs, and so on.

Here’s one version but feel free to change this and that.

Chunky Tomato-eggplant-Mushroom Sauce

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 2 cloves garlic, chopped

• 4-5 tomatoes, chopped or two cups cut up cherry or grape tomatoes

• 1 cup diced eggplant

• 6 ounces mushrooms, cut into chunks

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or basil

• salt and pepper

• cooked pasta

Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan or wok/pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Add the tomatoes, eggplant, mushrooms, herb and salt and pepper to taste and cook, stirring occasionally for about 8-10 minutes or until the mixture is thick and sauce-like. Serve over pasta (or use as a side dish for grilled steak or chicken).

Makes enough for one pound of pasta

Garden Fresh Salsa (Pico de Gallo)

Last year my garden was like a jungle, loaded with tomatoes, zucchinis, eggplants, peppers and other stuff.

This year —-meh. Tomatoes not so plentiful (but delicious), I got two measly zucchinis, didn’t grow eggplants. The collard leaves were eaten up by roving outsiders. We managed one good bunch of kale.

The chili peppers though! They gave their all. We have plenty of them, all perfect.

So I decided to make homemade salsa.

I used peppers, tomatoes and scallions, all from my garden. I didn’t have cilantro, so I used the small green leaves from what I thought was a parsley plant but it turned out to be celery.

The avocado — store bought, and I know it isn’t a usual addition to Pico de Gallo, but I added some anyway and it gave a lovely, mellowing flavor and creamy texture.

Garden Fresh Salsa

• 4 medium tomatoes, chopped

• 2-3 scallions, chopped

• 2 small chili peppers, deseeded and chopped

• 1 small (or 1/2 large) avocado, chopped*

• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, parsley or celery leaves

• 1 large clove garlic, finely chopped

• 2 teaspoons olive oil

• 2 tablespoons lime juice

• salt to taste

Place the tomatoes, scallions, chili peppers, avocado, cilantro and garlic in a bowl. Pour the olive oil over the vegetables and toss the ingredients to distribute them evenly. Add the lime join, toss again and let rest for at least one hour. Taste for seasoning and add salt as needed.

*You can make this a day ahead. If so, add the avocado an hour before serving rather than at the same time as the other ingredients.