relish/chutney/preserves

Fruit and Green Tomato Chutney

It’s that time of year again — there are still some ripe red tomatoes, lots of basil and a couple of eggplants in my garden, but mostly green tomatoes, (mostly still-green cherry tomatoes). They’ll ripen if I keep them on the vine but frankly, I have had so much success in the past using them for chutney, that that’s what I’ve been doing.

This chutney lasts for months in the fridge. I always make a few jars of it. We love it with any kind of meat and also roasted or grilled chicken. Think of this as a good relish that pairs well with your Thanksgiving turkey.

It’s a good gift too, for the chutney lovers in your life.

FRUIT AND GREEN TOMATO CHUTNEY 

  • 6 apples or pears, peeled, cored and chopped

  • 2 pounds green tomatoes, chopped

  • 2 medium onions, peeled and chopped

  • 2 small chili peppers such as serrano, deseeded and chopped

  • 1 large clove garlic, chopped

  • 2-1/2 cups chopped dried fruit (such as figs, dates, apricots, pears, raisins)

  • 1/2 cup crystallized ginger

  • 3 cups any kind of fruit vinegar

  • 1/4 cup Balsamic vinegar

  • 2 cups sugar

  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt

  • 2 teaspoon mustard seeds

Place the fresh fruit, tomatoes, onions, chili peppers, garlic, dried fruit, crystallized ginger, cider vinegar, Balsamic vinegar, sugar, cinnamon, cloves, kosher salt and mustard seed in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 2 to 2-1/2 hours or until very thick.  

Makes about 6 cups

A Sauce for the Season

Grilled Kebabs with Pebre Sauce

On Monday (May 27), we Americans will be celebrating Memorial Day, a federal holiday to honor those who died in military service of the country.

Memorial Day weekend is also the traditional time that ushers in “barbecue season.”

I mean, some of us barbecue all year but many of us (me!) don’t because it’s too cold before the end of May to venture outside to cook.

And so, to begin the season, I offer a recipe for Pebre Sauce. In case you haven’t heard of it, Pebre is similar to Chimichurri. It’s originally from Chile, but well known throughout South America. I included this recipe in my first kosher cookbook, Hip Kosher, and I’ve made this sauce every summer since that book was published in 2008.

Why?

Mostly because it’s so tasty. But also: you can use it for all sorts of grilled meat, poultry or chicken (in Hip Kosher I paired it with beef kebabs) and even for vegetables, grilled or otherwise. Or use it as a marinade. And you can mix in some mayonnaise or olive oil and vinegar to use as a salad dressing (particularly delicious for potato salad).

PEBRE SAUCE

  • 1 cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

  • 1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves

  • 2 large garlic cloves, quartered

  • 1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves

  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice

  • 1 small habanero or serrano pepper, deseeded and chopped

  • 1/2 cup olive oil

Process the parsley, cilantro, garlic, oregano, lemon juice and pepper in a food processor until they are finely chopped. With the machine still on, gradually pour in the olive oil.

Makes about 1/2 cup

Persimmon Salsa

I’m continuing my search for some new nibbles for our New Year’s Eve hors d’oeuvres fest — and found a definite!

Persimmon salsa (I’m fortunate to have found some lovely persimmons in the market).

This is a yes because not only is it delicious, it’s also quick and easy to make and so colorful and inviting for a celebration.

Btw — this is also a nice side dish with grilled meat, fish or chicken. And maybe even useful for a Superbowl party — don’t pass this by!

PERSIMMON SALSA

  • 2 Fuyu persimmons

  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

  • 2-3 teaspoons finely chopped chili pepper

  • 1/2 cup chopped red onion

  • 1 teaspoon very finely grated lime zest

  • 2 tablespoons lime juice

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil

  • 1 tablespoon honey

  • salt to taste

Chop the persimmons into small pieces and place them in a bowl. Add the mint, chili pepper, red onion and lime zest and mix to distribute the ingredients. Pour in the lime juice, olive oil and honey, sprinkle with salt and toss the ingredients. Let rest for at least 30 minutes before serving.

Makes about 2-1/2 cups 

Tomato Jam

The Jewish holidays of Shemini Atzeret and Simchat Torah mark the end of the year and the annual cycle of Torah readings. This joyful “ending”reminds me of school commencement which comes after the completion of required courses but means “a beginning,” a celebration of accomplishments but with a look to the future.

We’re done; it’s time to look ahead.

With this in mind, this year my Shemini Atzeret and Simchat Torah menu will focus on the end of the vegetable garden I planted last spring and using the harvest in new ways.

All summer we were blessed with fresh tomatoes that I used for sandwiches, salads, pizzas and sauce. And fresh chili peppers that went into mango salsa and roasted pepper soup. But recently we had a horrific rain storm that more or less put an end to my garden. I harvested the not so beautiful end of season tomatoes and cooked them into jam: Green Tomato Jam and, with the ripe red tomatoes, this simple Red Tomato Jam.

This was such a delicious way to make use of what was left! It’s vaguely sweet, with a hint of cumin. So far I’ve used the jam for grilled cheese sandwich and also as a spread for a cheese board.

Next: a topping for either burgers or steak.

There’s more to come of course. I’ll keep you posted.

New beginnings.

RED Tomato Jam

  • 2 pounds tomatoes, preferably plum tomatoes

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil or avocado oil

  • 3 medium scallions, chopped

  • 1 chili pepper, deseeded and chopped

  • 1-1/4 cups sugar

  • 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add some of the tomatoes, cook them for 20 seconds then place them under cold running water. Continue with the remainder of the tomatoes. Remove the skins from the tomatoes and chop them into small pieces. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the tomatoes, scallions and chili pepper and cook for 4-5 minutes to soften them slightly. Add the sugar, apple cider vinegar, lemon juice and salt, mix thoroughly, bring the ingredients to a boil and turn the heat to low. Cook for about 1-1/2 to 2 hours, stirring occasionally, or until the mixture is thick and jam like.

Makes about 2 cups

Green Tomato Jam

I've been busy! With all the leftover tomatoes -- red and green --- and chili peppers that suffered through those horrible days of rain. (There were also a couple of eggplants). They weren't in the best shape, still ... useable. So I made lots of jam: Red tomato jam, green tomato jam and green tomato, dried fruit and apple chutney.

We eat these all sorts of ways: with cheese and crackers, with cheese for grilled cheese, alongside grilled burgers or steak, just as-is on a cracker. Add some to vegetables. Use your imagination. This stuff is delicious and useful.

Green Tomato Jam

2 pounds green tomatoes, chopped
2 small chili peppers, deseeded and chopped
2 cups sugar
1 small lime, sliced
1 cinnamon stick
2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger
6 whole cloves

Place the chopped tomatoes and peppers in a food processor and process until the vegetables are very finely chopped. Place the vegetables in a saucepan. Add the sugar, lime slices, cinnamon stick, ginger and cloves and mix to distribute the ingredients. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to low and cook for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally, or until the mixture is thick and jam like.

Makes about 2 cups

Rhubarb Chutney

Rhubarb has a special place in my life. My mother made it often and served it as a side dish the way most other mothers I knew served apple sauce. She used fresh rhubarb stalks when they were in season and boxes of frozen rhubarb during the rest of the year.

Everyone in my family loved it. My mother didn’t use as much sugar as most recipes said to do because we loved it tart and tangy. I make it the same way she did: mix 1-1/2 pounds of sliced rhubarb with 3/4 cup sugar and cook over medium heat, covered, for about 10 minutes. Remove the cover and cook for another 15 minutes. That’s it!

Recently I’ve also been making rhubarb chutney because its a great favorite at our house. It’s such a good accompaniment to grilled meats — chicken, beef, lamb — all of it, and I’ve also served it with salmon.

Rhubarb season is almost over so make this one while you still can! 

You can serve it with whatever you may be grilling outdoors over Labor Day weekend. Or with a classic roasted chicken for Shabbat or Rosh Hashanah brisket. It will keep in the fridge for awhile too, so you can save some for Thanksgiving.

Or give some away — it’s a delicious, edible gift!

Rhubarb Chutney

  • 1 pound rhubarb, cut into 1/2-inch slices

  • 1 cup sugar

  • 1/3 cup apple cider vinegar

  • 1 2-inch cinnamon stick

  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger

  • 6 whole cloves

  • 1 medium onion, chopped

  • 2 large cloves garlic, chopped

  • 1 cup golden raisins

Combine the rhubarb, sugar, cider vinegar, cinnamon stick, ginger, cloves, onion, garlic and raisins in a large stainless steel or enamel saucepan. Mix the ingredients and cook over high heat. When the liquid in the pan starts to bubble, lower the heat to medium and cook for about 15 minutes or until the raisins are tender and the sauce is slightly thickened. Refrigerate for at least one hour.

Makes about 3 cups

 

Apple and Green Tomato Chutney

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So, summer’s over and the nights are cooler and I harvested all the remaining fruits and vegetables left in the garden before they either would rot or become frosted over or eaten by hungry animals that roam around the backyard.

I actually had a lot of unripe produce this year. So I made some pepper jam using the recipe I posted a few weeks ago except this time I added a few cups of green mini tomatoes and some chopped up fresh ginger.

I also made chutney using the recipe below. I’ve made this recipe several times using different vinegars. This version includes coconut vinegar, but any old kind of fruit vinegar will do.

We like chutney as a side relish for grilled or roasted meat or poultry— keep this in mind for Thanksgiving. It’s also nice in small amounts as a topping for cheese and crackers.

Apple and Green Tomato Chutney 

  • 6 apples, peeled, cored and chopped

  • 2 pounds green tomatoes, chopped

  • 2 medium onions, peeled and chopped

  • 2 small chili peppers such as serrano, deseeded and chopped

  • 1 large clove garlic, chopped

  • 1 cup chopped dates (about 12 large)

  • 1 cup golden raisins

  • 2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger

  • 2-1/2 cups apple cider vinegar or other fruit vinegar

  • 2 cups brown sugar

  • 1 tablespoon ras el hanout

  • kosher salt

Place the apples, tomatoes, onions, chili peppers, garlic, dates, raisins, ginger, apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, ras el hanout and some kosher salt (about one teaspoon) in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for about 2-1/2 hours or until very thick.  

Makes about 6 cups

 

Pepper Jam

My garden runneth over.

The tomatoes are nearing perfection, and I have loads of them. That’s for next week.

The eggplants have been amazing. Ditto the green and yellow string beans.

The basil, rosemary, thyme and mint have been glorious.

Ok, I had some fabulous squash blossoms but the zucchini and yellow squash — eh! Not so good.

But the chili peppers! Oh my. I planted several kind: cayenne, jalapeno, poblano, serrano and hatch. And I have so many peppers that I could open a farm market and make a few bucks.

With the abundance last year I made salsa a lot and used the peppers for various recipes. This year I gave a lot of peppers away. Still had more than enough to make salsa and then some.

So I made jam.

Yes, jam. Sweet, hot, sticky, unusual.

It took a few tries until I got it right. But oh my, it turned out to be the big summer bonus this year.

Delicious.

So far I’ve served it several times with cheese (the best kinds are spreadable tangy cheeses such as mascarpone, goat cheese or sheep cheese, but plain old cream cheese would work).

But we’ve also eaten this with grilled beef ribs and steak.

Perfect.

I’ll be including a dish of this jam alongside the apples and honey this Rosh Hashanah.

You can eliminate the bell pepper in the recipe. I happened to have one and wanted to use it. One pound of any kind of peppers will do.

Pepper Jam

  • 1 pound mixed chili peppers and/or chili peppers and one red bell pepper

  • boiling water

  • 2-1/2 cups sugar

  • 1 cup apple cider vinegar

  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Remove the stems and seeds from the peppers. Chop the peppers coarsely and place the pieces in a bowl. Pour enough boiling water over the peppers to cover them. Let rest for 10 minutes. Drain the peppers, discard the water and process the peppers to tiny pieces in a food processor. Spoon the chopped peppers into a saucepan. Add the sugar, apple cider vinegar and salt, stir to blend the ingredients and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat lower so that the ingredients cook at a simmer. Cook for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the pan from the heat. Do not be concerned if the mixture seems thin. It will thicken as it cools — if it is not as thick as jam when cooled, simmer the ingredients for 5-10 more minutes. Spoon the jam into jars and store in the refrigerator.

Makes about 2 cups

Mixed Fruit Jam

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When people talk about Thanksgiving leftovers, it usually means the turkey, maybe stuffing and cranberries. And there are the inevitable conversations about pot pie and sandwiches, salad, soup and so on.

But this year was a strange one; we were only four for dinner, instead of the usual 20 or so. And while we did have a big turkey (plenty of leftovers days!) I scaled back on the other stuff, so only one meal of leftover stuffing, sweet potatoes and Brussels sprouts.

On the other hand, I had bought loads of fruit and we ate a lot of it and yet we had too much leftover. I had my fill of grapes and apples. I already had a couple of extra bags of cranberries in my freezer.

So I made it into jam, which was perfect on the leftover challah. I also have some in my fridge to use in our family Fanny cookies. It’s also delicious inside blintzes (topped with sour cream or whipped cream) or on top of ice cream for a Hanukkah dairy meal.

It also makes a lovely, edible gift for the holidays.

I made a whole recipe, but this is easily halved.

Mixed Fruit Jam

  • 6 cups seedless grapes

  • 2 cups fresh cranberries

  • 2 apples, peeled and chopped

  • 1/4 cup crushed crystallized ginger

  • 3 cups sugar

  • 1 cup orange juice

  • 6 whole cloves

  • 2” piece cinnamon stick

Place the grapes, cranberries, apples and crystallized ginger in a deep saucepan. Add the sugar and briefly stir the ingredients. Pour in the orange juice. Add the cloves and cinnamon (place in cheesecloth or a small muslin bag if desired). Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally, or until the mixture has thickened. Discard the cloves and cinnamon stick. Puree with a hand blender or in a food processor. Let cool, place in storage containers and refrigerate.

Makes about 4 cups

Green Tomato, Grape and Apple Chutney

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By some extraordinary piece of luck, every year a tomato plant that I never planted pops up and makes its appearance in my garden.

The plant grows and grows into a jungle with stalks that I hold up with a multitude of stakes and ties. It reminds me of Jack and the Beanstalk (am I dating myself with that one?). And the stalks are loaded, absolutely loaded, with what becomes the sweetest, most delicious cherry tomatoes ever.

I am guessing that the thing grows from a seed or two that must have planted itself from either some other plant somewhere (but not my garden because I don’t have other plants with this variety of tomato) or maybe from the remains of some outdoor patio lunch or dinner at which I served that kind of tomato.

Whatever the reason, the plant comes back every year in the same place, just as thick and fecund as ever.

Nature is glorious.

But of course, after a while the cold weather comes and dozens of tomatoes are still growing and I have to harvest them before the frost. They’re green of course, so, what to do?

In past years I’ve breaded and fried the small green tomatoes. These glorious tidbits are crunchy outside and soft inside and when you bite into them you get a spurt of fresh, tart tomato juice. They are really good as hors d’oeuvre.

I’ve also used the tomatoes to make chutney. I cooked this new version recently, because I had some apples and grapes on hand.

We love chutney as a side relish with roasted meat and chicken. I also serve it on crackers spread with a bit of cream cheese and have used a thin layer on top of cheese to make a super delicious and unusual grilled cheese sandwich.

Green Tomato, Grape and Apple Chutney

  • 2 cups green cherry tomatoes, halved (or use chopped green tomatoes)

  • 2 cups seedless grapes

  • 1 cup raisins

  • 2 apples, peeled, cored and diced

  • 2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped

  • 3 large cloves of garlic, finely chopped

  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger

  • 1 cup apple cider vinegar

  • 1 cup brown sugar

  • 1/2 cup water

  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt

  • 2 dried chili peppers (or one small chopped fresh chili pepper)

  • 2 teaspoons mustard seeds

  • 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

     

Place the tomatoes, grapes, raisins, apples, onions, garlic, ginger, vinegar, brown sugar, water, salt, chili peppers, mustard seed and coriander in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 2-1/2 to 3 hours or until very thick.

 Makes about one quart