Potato Pancakes for all occasions

Is there anyone who doesn’t like potato pancakes?

Can’t be!

I make all sorts of versions: Ashkenazi Jewish, Irish, Peruvian, German ….. and more. I make some with raw, shredded potatoes and some with cooked, mashed potatoes ….. and more.

I love all of them.

Recently I tinkered with one of my recipes for Irish mashed potato pancakes, basically combining it with another fabulous Irish mashed potato dish called Colcannon, which includes chopped cabbage or kale.

The result was these wonderful, crispy outside, meltingly tender inside Mashed Potato and Cabbage Pancakes.

I’ve made them with both cabbage and kale. I’ve coated them with panko, breadcrumbs and matzo meal.

They all work!

So — the recipe below, which is dairy-free and has a matzo meal crust, is a winner for St. Patrick’s Day, which is fun and gastronomically wonderful even if you’re not Irish, AND is a great side dish for Passover.

MASHED POTATO and Cabbage PANCAKES 

• 2 large all-purpose or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

• 1/2 to 3/4 cup chopped cabbage or kale

• 1 large egg

• 3 chopped fresh scallions

• 1/4 cup matzo meal (or bread crumbs)

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1/2 cup matzo meal, approximately (or use bread crumbs or panko)

• vegetable oil

Place the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water begins to boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for about 12 minutes or until the potatoes are barely tender. Add the cabbage and cook for another 3-4 minutes. Drain and return the potato-cabbage mixture to the saucepan. Mash the vegetables with a fork or mashing tool. Stir in the egg, scallions and 1/4 cup matzo meal. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Make flat cakes, about 1/4-inch thick out of the potato mixture. Press each side of the cake into the remaining matzo meal, to coat each side. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Heat about 1/4-inch vegetable oil in a cast iron skillet or heavy, heat retaining sautepan over moderately high heat. Fry for about 3 minutes per side or until the pancakes are golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels.

Makes about 12

Vegetable Croquettes (Passover)

I was once in a pub in the west of England and ordered a dish called Bubble & Squeak. It’s simple, unfancy food, tasty and nourishing, consisting of mashed potatoes and cabbage fried to a crispy brown and topped with an egg.

It was magical.

So I made it many times at home, and, me being me, and this recipe being the kind that allows for endless variation, I added this and that to the potatoes, depending on what leftover vegetables I had. I used Brussels sprouts instead of cabbage (as do many restaurants in England); I’ve added corn, peas, carrots, spinach, broccoli and such. Once or twice I included cheese (feta, Parmesan) but I prefer the all-vegetable version best.

I don’t call it Bubble & Squeak (so named for the sounds it supposedly makes while being cooked), so I’ll just say: Vegetable Croquettes. We’ve eaten them as a side dish with meat but most of the time they are dinner, topped with a fried egg.

This is my Passover version. At other times of the year you can add beans/peas and coat the patties with bread crumbs.

Vegetable Croquettes

• 1/2 cup vegetable oil, approximately

• 1 medium onion, finely chopped

•  1 cup chopped cooked cabbage

•  2 chopped, cooked carrots

• 10 ounce package frozen spinach, thawed

• 3 cups mashed potatoes

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1/2 cup matzo meal, approximately

Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 3-4 minutes or until softened. Spoon the onions into a bowl. Add the cabbage, carrots, spinach, mashed potatoes and some salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly and shape the mixture into 1/2-inch patties. Place the matzo meal on a plate. Press both sides of each patty into the crumbs. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Heat 2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil in the sauté pan over medium heat. Fry the patties a few at a time (leave plenty of space between each) for 3-4 minutes per side or until crispy and golden brown, adding more vegetable oil to the pan as needed.

Makes 8-10

Mashed Potato Pancakes

When I am going through periods of stress in my life, the food I want most is anything made with a potato.

So: these.

Mashed potato pancakes.

Just in time for St. Patrick’s Day.

I’m not Irish but will use any excuse to eat Irish food, which, despite the outcries of surprise from my Irish friends, is quite wonderful (fresh salmon, fabulous oatmeal, spectacular bread and the best potatoes ever).

I’ve been to Ireland a few times and have eaten mashed potato pancakes there, although I’ve never seen them crusted with panko; it’s usually plain old bread crumbs on the outside.

You can use either; I like the texture of panko better.

Mashed potato pancakes are very soft, so be careful when placing them in the pan and turning them.

These make a good side dish, but also a meal if you top them with a fried egg or two.

Mashed Potato Pancakes 

• 3 cups cold mashed potatoes

• 1 large egg

• 2 chopped fresh scallions or 3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

• 1/3 cup bread crumbs

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 cup panko or bread crumbs, approximately

• 5-6 tablespoons vegetable oil

Place the mashed potatoes, egg, scallions, 1/3 cup bread crumbs and salt and pepper to taste in  a bowl and mix thoroughly to blend all the ingredients. Shape the mixture into patties about 1/2-inch thick and refrigerate for at least one hour. Place the panko on a dish, then press each patty into the panko to coat both sides. Patties are very soft and fragile, so work carefully. Heat 2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil in a saute pan over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, fry a few of the potato cakes for about 3 minutes per side, or until crispy. Be sure to leave room in the pan with space between each pancake. Repeat with the remaining potato cakes, adding more oil to the pan as needed.

Makes about 12

Mashed Potato Pancakes

It has been said that on St. Patrick's Day everyone is Irish.

That's okay by me! I've been to Ireland. It's gorgeous. The people are friendly, the sites are interesting, the weather is glorious, the food is awesome. What's not to like?

The potato dishes are especially good.

Like mashed potato pancakes. You absolutely cannot go wrong making these. A terrific side dish with fish or at a vegetarian dinner. But, ya know, I've had these for dinner just by themselves, topped with sunnyside eggs (and served with some grilled tomatoes) and that's a perfect meal as far as I am concerned.

Mashed Potato Latkes

• 2 pounds boiling potatoes (such as Yukon Golds)
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1/2 cup milk
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives, optional
• 1 large egg
• Panko crumbs
• vegetable oil for frying

Wash the potatoes and cut them into chunks. Bring them to a boil in a large pan in lightly salted water. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Drain and, when cool enough to handle, peel the potatoes. Mash the potatoes in a bowl using a potato masher or ricer. Add the butter and the milk and stir them in. Stir in the chives, if used, and the egg. Make flat cakes, about 1/4-inch thick out of the potato mixture. Press each side of the cake into Panko crumbs. Heat about 1/4" vegetable oil in a cast iron or other heavy heat retaining skillet over moderately high heat. Fry for 2-3 minutes per side or until the pancakes are golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels.

Makes about 12