Potato Pancakes for all occasions

Is there anyone who doesn’t like potato pancakes?

Can’t be!

I make all sorts of versions: Ashkenazi Jewish, Irish, Peruvian, German ….. and more. I make some with raw, shredded potatoes and some with cooked, mashed potatoes ….. and more.

I love all of them.

Recently I tinkered with one of my recipes for Irish mashed potato pancakes, basically combining it with another fabulous Irish mashed potato dish called Colcannon, which includes chopped cabbage or kale.

The result was these wonderful, crispy outside, meltingly tender inside Mashed Potato and Cabbage Pancakes.

I’ve made them with both cabbage and kale. I’ve coated them with panko, breadcrumbs and matzo meal.

They all work!

So — the recipe below, which is dairy-free and has a matzo meal crust, is a winner for St. Patrick’s Day, which is fun and gastronomically wonderful even if you’re not Irish, AND is a great side dish for Passover.

MASHED POTATO and Cabbage PANCAKES 

• 2 large all-purpose or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

• 1/2 to 3/4 cup chopped cabbage or kale

• 1 large egg

• 3 chopped fresh scallions

• 1/4 cup matzo meal (or bread crumbs)

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1/2 cup matzo meal, approximately (or use bread crumbs or panko)

• vegetable oil

Place the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water begins to boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for about 12 minutes or until the potatoes are barely tender. Add the cabbage and cook for another 3-4 minutes. Drain and return the potato-cabbage mixture to the saucepan. Mash the vegetables with a fork or mashing tool. Stir in the egg, scallions and 1/4 cup matzo meal. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Make flat cakes, about 1/4-inch thick out of the potato mixture. Press each side of the cake into the remaining matzo meal, to coat each side. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Heat about 1/4-inch vegetable oil in a cast iron skillet or heavy, heat retaining sautepan over moderately high heat. Fry for about 3 minutes per side or until the pancakes are golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels.

Makes about 12

Mashed Potato Pancakes

It has been said that on St. Patrick's Day everyone is Irish.

That's okay by me! I've been to Ireland. It's gorgeous. The people are friendly, the sites are interesting, the weather is glorious, the food is awesome. What's not to like?

The potato dishes are especially good.

Like mashed potato pancakes. You absolutely cannot go wrong making these. A terrific side dish with fish or at a vegetarian dinner. But, ya know, I've had these for dinner just by themselves, topped with sunnyside eggs (and served with some grilled tomatoes) and that's a perfect meal as far as I am concerned.

Mashed Potato Latkes

• 2 pounds boiling potatoes (such as Yukon Golds)
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1/2 cup milk
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives, optional
• 1 large egg
• Panko crumbs
• vegetable oil for frying

Wash the potatoes and cut them into chunks. Bring them to a boil in a large pan in lightly salted water. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Drain and, when cool enough to handle, peel the potatoes. Mash the potatoes in a bowl using a potato masher or ricer. Add the butter and the milk and stir them in. Stir in the chives, if used, and the egg. Make flat cakes, about 1/4-inch thick out of the potato mixture. Press each side of the cake into Panko crumbs. Heat about 1/4" vegetable oil in a cast iron or other heavy heat retaining skillet over moderately high heat. Fry for 2-3 minutes per side or until the pancakes are golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels.

Makes about 12

Mashed Potatoes with Frizzled Scallions

Mashed Potatoes with Frizzled Scallions

You know that question people ask: “if there was only one food you could have if you were alone on a desert island, what would it be?” 

I say potato.

Of course that’s not realistic. But I’m never going to be stranded on a desert island. (But of course, if I were, I’d want to be Mrs. Howell and have my butler bring me whatever I wanted.)

I know the question really isn’t about forcing me to think about survival. What they want to know is “what’s the first item that comes to mind when someone asks you what your favorite food is.”

I say potato. All kinds. Every way.

And did I mention some time ago that when Ed and I traveled to Ireland we ate salmon, salmon, salmon and potatoes, potatoes, potatoes? And it was SO delicious?

Most of the potato dishes we ate were plain. Baked, boiled, roasted, mashed. But several of the mashed potato dishes also included steamed cabbage, kale, scallions or leeks (variations on Colcannon).

When we got back to the States I decided to create a variation on this theme. Here’s the result: mashed potatoes with scallions, but the scallions are fried and caramelized and I serve them on top because they are crisp and make a nice contrast to the soft and creamy stuff beneath.

Another wonderful thing about mashed potatoes? They are non seasonal. Perfect any time of year.

Mashed Potatoes with Frizzled Scallions

8-10 scallions

2 tablespoons olive oil

6 medium all-purpose potatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped

5 tablespoons butter

1-1/2 cups milk, heated to warm

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Wash the scallions and with the tip of a sharp knife, cut along the length of each to cut each scallion in half lengthwise. Remove the root. Cut the lengths in half to make them shorter. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the scallion shreds and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes or until the scallions are tender and browned. Set aside. Cook the potatoes in lightly salted simmering water for about 15 minutes or until tender. Drain. Add the butter and mash the potatoes until most of the lumps have disappeared. Add the heated milk, salt and pepper and mix the ingredients until evenly distributed. Place in a serving bowl. Top with the scallions. Makes 6-8 servings