A couple of years ago I wrote an article about salmon croquettes for the Nosher (My Jewish Learning). I acknowledged that salmon croquettes (latkes, patties) are not particularly elegant and not fashionable, and yet they are beloved in so many Jewish families. I don’t know anyone above a “certain age” whose mom or grandma did NOT make salmon latkes.

For me, salmon latkes are not only great food, they conjure many memories (they were my mother’s favorite — and last — meal). I make them the way my mom made them (the recipe is in the article link above).

And yet I also vary the recipe so much that I can’t, in good conscience, call them salmon latkes. First, because I don’t always use salmon. Second, I add a lot of extras that weren’t ever part of my mom’s original recipe.

Here’s one of my favorite variations. I make it with bluefish because I really love bluefish. But any fish will do.

Fish Cakes with Sun Dried Tomatoes

• 2 medium Yukon gold potatoes

• 2 cups crumbled cooked fish

• 1 large egg

• 1 thick scallion, finely chopped

• 1/4 cup chopped black imported olives

• 1/4 cup chopped sun dried tomatoes

• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

• salt and pepper to taste

• all-purpose flour for dredging, about 1/4 cup

• 2 tablespoon butter

• 2 tablespoon olive oil

• lemon quarters

Cut the potatoes into large chunks and cook them in lightly salted water for 12-15 minutes or until tender. Drain under cold water and peel. Mash the potatoes and place them in a bowl. Add the fish, egg, scallion, olives, tomatoes, parsley, mustard and salt and pepper to taste. Mix the ingredients to distribute them evenly. Shape portions of the mixture into 4 patties about 1/2-thick. Dredge the patties in the flour and shake off the excess. Heat the butter and olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the patties and cook for about 3 minutes per side or until hot, crispy and golden brown. Serve garnished with lemon quarters.

Makes 4 servings