Kitchen Vignettes

What’s TNBT? Every new year people make predictions. One time I read that The Next Big Thing would be a frying pan that somehow let you know when the pan reached the perfect temperature to add eggs or hamburger or pancakes.

It wasn’t.

This year I’ve read, in a few places, that Peruvian cuisine would be TNBT.

Maybe. Maybe not. 

But I do know that we have the Peruvians to thank for potatoes. Centuries ago, Spanish conquistadors set out to the Americas to find El Dorado, the land of gold and plenty. They never found that. But they did find plenty of potatoes, a culinary treasure to be sure.

Potatoes, which no one in Europe knew about then, flourished in the volcanic soil of the Peruvian Andes. The conquistadors took note at how the Peruvians roasted potatoes whole, until the insides were soft and the outsides crunchy and dark.

Baked Potato.

My favorite.

If I could only pick one food to live on for the rest of my life it would be a baked potato.

Baked potatoes are so good (especially if you use an organic Russet, or Idaho potato) that, IMHO you don’t need to do anything with it except sprinkle the insides with salt (I like a mineraly sea salt) and freshly ground black pepper.

But okay, butter works too (unsalted always tastes fresher and cleaner).

And some people like to add sour cream and chives. And other people like Baked Stuffed Potatoes, which I have to confess, are a wonderful make-ahead side dish, and so versatile that there are more versions than you could possibly consider cooking.

Here’s one recipe:

Baked Stuffed Potatoes with Horseradish and Dill

4 large Russet potatoes

4 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons cream cheese

1/2 cup dairy sour cream

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

1-1/2 tablespoons prepared white horseradish

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the oven rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Scrub the potatoes and dry them. Pierce the potatoes and place them in the oven (or you can wait and pierce the potatoes after 20-30 minutes). Bake the potatoes for about an hour or until you can easily pierce into the flesh with the tip of a sharp knife. When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, slice them in half lengthwise and scoop the flesh into a bowl. Add the butter and cream cheese and mash into the potatoes. Add the sour cream, dill and horseradish and mix them in. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste. Using equal amounts, stuff the mixture back into the skins. Place the potato halves on a cookie sheet. Reheat the potatoes until hot (10-15 minutes depending on whether the potatoes have been refrigerated). Makes 4-8 servings

Hi Ronnie, Love your site--it's packed with wonderful stories, ideas and ofcourse recipes.I was one of the Kugel cooks and mentioned to you that I want to recreate a savory type of strudel dish that my Russian Grandma used to make.She would lay the pastry on a baking sheet and then top it with either kasha, potatoes, cheese or meat. Then she would roll it up like strudel and bake it until golden brown. Then we goblled it up instantly. Can you help me?

Hi

My grandmother used to make potato strudel. I remember that she even made her own dough, at least once, and I actually tried that (I remember stretching the dough to table size!). Here is a recipe for potato strudel — it’s basically mashed potatoes and onions inside phyllo dough. If you don’t want to use butter and cream, substitute olive oil and chicken stock).

You can use the same process using cooked kasha or any other grain. I also have a recipe for mushroom strudel if you’re interested.

Potato Strudel

6 large Yukon Gold or all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

4 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon salt or to taste

freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil

1 large onion, sliced

1 large egg

1/3 cup half and half

8 sheets phyllo dough

3 tablespoons melted butter

dry plain bread crumbs

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Cook the potatoes in lightly salted water for about 15 minutes or until tender. Drain, add the butter and the salt and pepper and mash with a potato masher (do not use a food processor). While the potatoes are cooking, heat the vegetable oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook for 12-15 minutes or until golden brown. Add the sauteed onions to the mashed potatoes and stir to blend. Add the egg and half and half, blend and set aside to cool. Using one phyllo dough sheet at a time, brush the sheet lightly with some of the melted butter, then sprinkle with a few bread crumbs, repeat, using 4 sheets (per roll). Spread half the potato filling down the long side of the sheet about one-inch from the edge and leaving about one-inch at the top and bottom (short side). Roll, jelly roll style, place seam side down on a baking sheet. Press down the ends to seal them. Repeat with the remaining 4 sheets of phyllo and the remaining potato filling. Brush the outside of the sheets with butter. Bake for about 20 minutes or until hot, browned and crispy. Makes 2 potato strudels

Swiss Roesti for World Cup and Wimbledon

Big day for Switzerland! The soccer team plays Chile today in the World Cup and tennis champion Roger Federer begins to defend his title in the first day of play at Wimbledon.

Let’s eat.

How about some Swiss Roesti?

Roesti is basically hash browns. Who doesn’t like that? It’s terrific with eggs at breakfast, with a sandwich at lunch and with most everything at dinner.

Here’s an easy recipe.

Roesti

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes

2 tablespoons butter

1-1/2 tablespoons olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Peel the potatoes and cut them in half. Put them in a pot, cover with lightly salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and simmer the potatoes for about 20 minutes or until they are tender. Drain and let the potatoes cool in the refrigerator (this makes it easier to grate them). When the potatoes are cool, grate them into a bowl.

Heat half the butter and olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the potatoes, sprinkle with salt and pepper and press the potatoes down with a firm spatula. Cook the potatoes for about 10 minutes or until well browned on the bottom. Slide the roesti onto a plate or cutting board. Add the remaining butter and olive oil to the pan. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, put the roesti uncooked side down in the pan. Cook for another 10 minutes or so, or until golden brown and crispy. Serve roesti by cutting it into wedges. Makes 4 servings

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