Last Friday I mentioned how annoying I find the mixture of food and politics. I was talking about kiwi fruit then.

But after thinking about it some more, I should also say that I find the whole anti-French, anti-European political demagoging to be absurd, and at the very least, self-righteous. We Americans come from all cultures, including European ones. We’re mongrels. Inclusive. 

So why the smug sneers when someone eats French food or knows how to speak Chinese or has a father who came from Kenya?

Especially when it comes to food. Lately the anti-French thing has ratcheted up. It would be laughable if it weren’t so dumb.

Are they kidding? Do these people understand how much French culture has given us? Manet. Cezanne. Matisse. Proust and his famous madeleines. Hugo. Voltaire. Debussy. Faure. Halevy.

And so on.

And the food? Have these people ever tried French Onion Soup? Eclairs or Crepes? Cassoulet? Ratatouille? Chocolate Mousse?

Those are just a few of the goodies we know from French cooking.

Not to be sneered at.

I admit it. I learned to speak French in high school and bemoan the fact that I wasn’t very good at it so I can’t speak any anymore and my daughter has teased me about not even remembering how to conjugate “etre” (“to be”).

I also love and admire French food, one of the mother cuisines, one of the best in the world and from which some of the most famous chefs and their famous creations have come.

I wish these politicians would get off this subject. They sound silly and hollow, not to say unfit for any office. 

Here’s a recipe for FRENCH Ratatouille. It’s terrific in the summer when you can use fresh tomatoes, and in the winter it’s terrific too (use canned tomatoes). Good as a main course at a vegetarian meal (add eggs or a whole grain casserole) or as a side dish with meat, poultry or fish. 

Ratatouille

1 medium eggplant, about one pound

2 medium zucchini

salt to taste

1/4 cup olive oil

2 medium onions, sliced

2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 red bell pepper, deseeded and sliced

1 green bell pepper, deseeded and sliced

1 28-ounce can Italian style tomatoes, including liquid

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1-2 sprigs thyme (or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

freshly ground black pepper to taste

Cut the eggplant and zucchinis into bite size pieces, place in a colander and sprinkle with salt. Let rest for 30 minutes, dry with paper towels. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2-3 minutes. Add the garlic, red pepper and green pepper and cook for another 2 minutes. Add the eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, basil and thyme. Partially cover the pan and cook for about 30 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Makes 4 servings

Politics and food? It’s incredibly annoying.

Take kiwi fruit, for example.

This brown, fuzzy-skinned fruit originated in China, which introduced it to New Zealand which wanted to market it here during the 1950s.

Unfortunately, at that time it was known as a “Chinese Gooseberry” and the U.S.A. was deep into McCarthy fever at the time. There were politicians who wanted nothing to do with anything that smacked of communism.

Huh?

Sort of reminds me of those today who make fun of anyone who speaks “French” as if knowing another language was something to be embarrassed about. As if anything French was bad (like “french fries” once idiotically referred to as “liberty fries.”). 

Huh?

So back to Kiwi. Because of some demagogues the country missed out on this delicious — and healthy — and beautiful fruit for decades.

Chinese gooseberries became really really popular in the 1980s after they were renamed kiwi fruit. So popular, in fact, that it was overdone, like so many food trends. Kiwi this, kiwi that. People got sick of them.

Today we’re all used to seeing kiwi fruit in the produce bins. They’re not exotic anymore.

But they are delicious. Beautiful and healthy. I sometimes add a few chunks to Chicken with Rice or use them on top of shortcake when strawberries are out of season (like now) or add them to salads (like rice or some whole grain with leftover meat or fish) or to garnish a cheesecake or custard tart.

I tasted kiwi fruit for the first time ages ago at a friend’s wedding. The dessert they served was Kiwi Melba. Plain, simple and refreshing after a 3-course dinner. The garnet-colored sauce, made from fresh raspberries was a stunning contrast to the emerald-green flesh of the kiwi fruit, like two precious jewels in a cup. It dazzled. I’ve served it at home, to company. It’s one of those desserts that takes almost no time to prepare and comes off as something very special to look at and to eat, as if you’ve fussed.

Here’s the recipe. If you want to elaborate, add a dollop of whipped cream and/or chopped toasted almonds on top. And/or place the fruit and sauce inside a meringue shell.

Kiwi Melba

6-8 kiwi fruit

2 boxes fresh raspberries (2 to 2-1/2 cups)

2-3 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons orange flavored brandy

whipped cream, optional

chopped toasted almonds, optional

Peel the kiwi fruit, cut them into quarters or chunks and place the pieces inside 6 dessert serving dishes. Crush the berries in a food processor or by hand. Add the sugar and brandy and mix thoroughly. Let rest for at least 10 minutes. Spoon over the kiwi. Top with whipped cream and/or toasted almonds if desired. Makes 6 servings

If you feed them they will vote.

So hurry on out to Iowa where the political barbecue is making a comeback. The candidates for the Iowa Republican straw poll, which takes place this weekend, are campaigning in the Hawkeye state and among the incentives to bring voters to their tents is: BARBECUE.

Potential voters (and who knows who else) will be given free tickets to attend the events, to listen to some entertainment, to listen (or not) to the candidates’ speeches and vote (or not).

They are also invited to eat.

The bet is, if you feed people for free they might vote for you.

But just in case you think this is some sort of new political game, you should know that the politician who perfected the political free-barbecue-for-votes was William Henry Harrison, way back in 1840. One of his barbecues attracted about 30,000 people. 

He trounced incumbent President Van Buren.

Was it the food?

Maybe. Maybe the food helped him win but it didn’t help much in the long run. Harrison died 32 days after his inauguration.

So, onward. To this year’s first set of real election nonsense: what will they serve?

My bet is there will be lots of chicken and ribs, boiled corn, maybe pie.

The corn has been good lately, we’re coming right up to the height of the season. So don’t bother going to Iowa. Vote at home for a good dinner. Get some fresh corn (preferably at the Farmer’s market) and boil it up just before you serve it for dinner. Serve it plain, with butter or a flavored butter. Here’s how:

Boiled Corn on the Cob

6 ears fresh corn

4 quarts water, approximately

1 cup milk, optional

Just before cooking, remove the husks and silk from the ears of corn. Bring a large pan of water (about 4 quarts) to a boil. Add the milk if desired. Immerse the corn and let the liquid come to a boil. Turn off the heat, cover the pan and let the corn sit in the water for 5-10 minutes or until tender. Use tongs to remove the cobs. Serve plain, with butter or one of the flavored butters below. Makes 6 servings

Flavored Butters: Blend ingredients thoroughly. Makes enough for 6 ears of corn.

Chili Butter

4 tablespoons softened butter

1 teaspoon chili powder

Scallion butter:

4 tablespoons softened butter

2 tablespoons finely chopped scallion

Horseradish Butter:

4 tablespoons softened butter

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons prepared white horseradish

Lemon-Herb Butter:

4 tablespoons softened butter

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh chives (or scallion greens)