Kitchen Vignettes
AUNT ALICE’S SCHWARZWALDER KIRCHTORTE

Submitted by Carol Selkin (carol_selkin@sbcglobal.net):

Ronnie – As “Aunt Alice’s” daughter, I can testify that my mother was NOT a cook, although she had a refined and educated palate (my folks ate out a lot, and well).  However, she was clearly not motivated in the kitchen.  My brother and I considered canned Chef Boy-Ar-Dee ravioli a real treat (not surprisingly, it’s still a fave of ours, and—weirdly—of our local granddaughters)!  In the fifties, my mom bought an impressive rotisserie machine from which we ate chicken at least once a week.  A “gourmet” meal was baked, seasoned chicken pieces coated in egg and cornflakes.  All spinach was from the frozen bricks.  She hated lima beans, and never ate them, though she begrudgingly served them (I loved them).  Dessert was often red Jello with sliced bananas–my mother could never remember which of her kids hated red Jello (me), so she just served both of us.  Later, my mother graduated to nearly undiluted green jello poured into a drained can of sliced pineapple (after gelling, the bottom was opened and the “molded” tower of pineapple was pushed out and sliced).  So you can imagine how amazed we were when she baked!  She had a few quick and easy recipes: “Split Second” cookies, a lovely apple crisp, the Betty Crocker yellow cake mix with added Jello lemon pudding (not realy so bad…!), and the famous Schwarzwalder Kirchtorte.  I must admit I haven’t had it for more than 40 years, and sometimes, as you write, “food pushes emotional buttons”—  old “homey” things may be memorialized as terrific when they just represent the good time we had eating them (like canned ravioli?!).  But I did find Alice’s original recipe, with my handwritten “Yum Yum Yum” at the bottom.  I think your recipe looks much more tempting, but this certainly looks like an easy way out.  P.S.  My aunt (my dad’s brother’s wife, Roz) was an excellent baker, and some of my fondest memories of baked goods were the wonderful shoeboxes of pecan tartlets she would make for each of her nieces and nephews!

AUNT ALICE’S SCHWARZWALDER KIRCHTORTE from the ’50s

2 eggs; 1 c. sugar; ¼ lb melted butter (or margarine); 2 tbs. Hershey’s unsweetened cocoa; 1 tsp. vanilla extract; 1 tsp. almond extract; ½ c. sifted flour; ½ c finely ground nuts (done in a blender); 1 tsp. baking powder; 1 (16 oz.) can unsweetened (tart, sour) cherries DRAINED AS DRY AS POSSIBLE! (Alice’s note)

Beat eggs thoroughly.  Mix eggs with melted butter, vanilla and almond extracts, and sugar.

Add flour, baking powder, nuts, cocoa.  Coat a greased 8” (2 ½” high) springform pan with a fine dusting of nuts, or even fine bread crumbs.  Pour mixture into pan.  Spread drained cherries evenly over batter.  Bake about 60 minutes at 350 degrees.

Well this gave me two laughs and a half early in the morning!

I am so happy you found that recipe but I do want to say: IT IS NOT THE ONE SHE SERVED THAT NIGHT!!!

The one she served for dessert had no cherries in the cake — only on top. And it was covered with whipped cream and there were perfect rosettes of whipped cream too, topped with maraschino cherries and plenty of shaved chocolate over everything.

It didn’t matter. We had a good time and an evening — obviously — that lasts in the memory. So, as we both know, food can evoke great memories, even if the food wasn’t cooked by the person serving it.

I loved hearing about your memories of Chef Boy-Ar-Dee, jello molds and lima beans.

What are split second cookies?


Because it’s National Black Forest Cake Day it reminds me of the time when my husband’s Aunt Alice invited us to dinner. We were flattered that she asked us (the aunts on my side didn’t) and she forewarned us that she wasn’t a great cook so we weren’t expecting anything out of the ordinary.

I don’t really remember anything about that dinner except for the dessert: a Black Forest Cake. So rich and chocolatey. So tender, fabulous, gorgeous. We ooohed and aaahed.

And then I made the mistake of asking her if she made it.

And then she made the mistake of saying yes.

Ohmyohmyohmy. 

I asked for the recipe.

I got one of course. But after I baked it I understood. It was an okay recipe. I don’t know where she got it, whose it was. I looked for it before I started this little entry today, but I must have discarded it in one of my recipe purges because it wasn’t THE recipe and wasn’t good enough to keep.

I never let Aunt Alice know I knew.

And I don’t know whether she ever knew I knew.

But in honor of Black Forest Day or really, I should say, in honor of Aunt Alice, here’s a recipe for Black Forest Cake. It builds on the chocolate cake recipe I posted a few days ago (but I’ve copied it here).

If you can’t get fresh cherries or don’t want to pit them, use canned Bing cherries, not cherry pie filling.

Black Forest Cake

The cake:

2 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup unsalted butter

1-1/2 cups sugar

2 large eggs

1-1/3 cups milk

2 teaspoons vanilla

The Syrup and filling:

1/2 cup sugar

1/3 cup water

2 tablespoons kirschwasser brandy

1 pound pitted sweet cherries (or use drained, canned Bing cherries)

The Frosting:

2 cups heavy cream

2 teaspoons sugar

2 tablespoons kirschwasser brandy

maraschino cherries for garnish

chocolate shavings for garnish

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease two 9-inch cake pans. Sift the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda and salt into a bowl and set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer set at medium, beat the butter and sugar together for 3-4 minutes or until creamy and well blended. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating after each addition. Add the flour mixture in thirds, alternating with the milk, and beat until the batter is smooth and well blended. Scrape the sides of the bowl occasionally. Stir in the vanilla extract. Spoon the batter into the prepared cake pans. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Let the cake cool in the pans for 10 minutes then invert onto a cake rack to cool completely.

Make the syrup: Bring the sugar and water to a boil in a small saucepan over high heat. Cook for 1-2 minutes, dissolving sugar completely. Let cool and stir in the brandy. Brush the syrup on one of the cake layers.

Whip the cream until it is thickened. Add the sugar and whip the cream until it is thick. Stir in the brandy. Place the syrup-glazed cake layer on a cake plate. Spread some of the whipped cream on top. Place the fresh cherries on top. Place the second cake layer on top. Use the remaining whipped cream to frost the cake. Garnish with maraschino cherries and chocolate shavings. Makes one cake serving 12